As with all major landscaping jobs for your garden, planting a hedge is something that you need to take some time in planning. Your first consideration should be about what use you want the hedge to perform. Do you want a hedge for privacy, security, to encourage wildlife, as a backdrop to your flower border, or as a seasonal display of flowers, berries or autumn colours?
You will also have to consider what height you want the hedge to grow as well as the pruning requirements. Finally, take into consideration what soil type you have and the growing conditions of the site you plan to grow the hedge. Once you have made these decisions you will be in a better position to choose the type of hedging plants.
Types of Hedging Plants
There are dozens of types of plants that you can use for your hedge. For an impenetrable hedge to secure around your boundary you can choose common holly which has bright red berries during winter, hedgehog holly which is shade tolerant, or firethorn which has beautiful coloured berries in the autumn and has thick thorny branches that will keep intruders out.
For privacy or screening out noise there are many options. The most popular are cypress, conifer, privet, English yew, western red cedar, or bamboo. If you just want a formal low hedge for decorative purposes then choose a boxus sempervirens. There are many other varieties with decorative leaves, berries, flowers, or seasonal colours that you can use in a variety of locations. Just make sure that you read the indications for the growing conditions.
How to Plant a Hedge
After choosing the location and the type of hedge you are now ready to plant it. There are many nurseries that can supply hedging plants in containers all year round - some are quite large and can create an instant screen when planted.
Of course, planting distances will vary depending on the variety. But generally you will want to dig a trench 2 to 3 feet wide and 1 foot deep. Break up the base of the trench with a fork and incorporate plenty of organic material like compost or leaf mould. If you chose the container plant then loosen the root ball if it is tight and soak the roots if they are dry.
If you bought bare rooted plants then the distance will be closer than container grown plants or conifers. For a denser hedge you can make plant a double staggered row. You need to plant at the same height as the plant was in the soil in the container - you can see the level by the mark on the stem. Then tamp the plant down with your foot to firm it in the soil.
You will want to read the instructions that come with your hedging plant for specific requirements. Pruning will differ widely depending on the variety and staking is usually required for conifers for a year or two. Nutrients and moisture requirements will also differ from variety to variety.
About the Author
Michael enjoys writing articles on the subjects that interest him and has been publishing online for several years now. Not only does he write about gardening, so you can check out one of his websites at http://www.yardmachinepartslist.com/ for details about where to find Yard Machine Parts to keep your yard machine running smoothly.
09/11/09
05/11/09
The Cut Flowers, Tips And Tricks For Them To Resist More by Angheliu Alexandru
Rose
The roses are charming, but very sophisticated and pretentious flowers too. There are some tricks to prolong the rose’s life:
· It would be good, if it’s any possibility, to be conserved in a cold place, even the fridge, but not near the other products, for a few hours, after bought them.
· Cut the stem at a very sharp angle under the water and than let the water to flow over the stems for 3 minutes.
· Soften the base of the stem into mint oil before put in the vase.
· Add some lemon drops into flower’s water or a little salt.
· Introduce the roses till flower in a tall and full of water vase than leave them in a dark cold place even for 24 hours.
· For bacteria to be destroyed, add a drop of disinfecting substance in flowers water.
· The roses need to stay in tall vases, filled with warm water.
· You have to change the water daily.
Tulip
The tulip’s availability, as a cut flower, is from 8 to 10 days. The tulip doesn’t bear the water privation and the warmth. For a better hydration, you need to cut the white base of the stem under the water and put it in a cold, without draught space, into cold and fresh water. To maintain the water’s freshness and the flower’s natural colors, attach some small branches of Tuia. You can also put a metal coin. To avoid the tulip’s declension, you have to fill the vase with water or to wrap the flower into a paper, because the stem will turn towards the light.
Lily
The punks of the lily have their different opening phase, that the flower lives in water more than 1, maybe 2 weeks. For a long availability, you got to avert the full-blown flower’s stamens, before the pollen will spot the petals, fading them. To prolong the lily’s life, add in the water a spoon of white vinegar (it applies to the gladioluses, anemones too).
Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is one of the most resistant cut flower and it will decorate your house for a long time, more than 2 weeks. By hybridization, the chrysanthemum has a several numbers of petals, multiple colors, forms and sizes. For the best hydration, you’ll smash or cut the stem at a very sharp angle, eliminate the base leafs of the stem. A bouquet of chrysanthemum flowers has to be disposed in a large vase, so the flowers will not be crowded. You need to change frequently the water in the vase and powder the flowers with water, because the chrysanthemum loves the humidity.
Orchid
The orchids will decorate your place for 1 or 2 weeks, maybe more, if you offer them the best conditions. It’s important for you to know that the orchid, being an exotic flower, prefer a 26 degrees temperature. After gathering, the flowers have to be left in a cold space (10-15 degrees) for a couple of hours. Than put them in capacious vases. To refresh the orchids you’ll cut the stem and than put it in a boiled water, so the flowers will resist more. Keep them away from the draught, smoking or hot vapors (this is also a practice for the anthurium cut flower).
Daffodil
The daffodil cut flowers can resist from 4 to 8 days, if they are carefully attended. Their stems excrete a viscous substance which is speeding up the blight process. Therefore you’ll follow this practice: cut the stem at a very sharp angle 2 inches below the end, than pass it through the fire or leave it for a while in warm water, for the pest substance to be eliminated. You can use a combination of vinegar and salt to clean the daffodil’s vase.
Carnation
The carnation is a very resistant flower and is usually used in the arrangements that have no water supply. Some cultures consider the carnation a funeral flower, maybe for its resistance. It’s important for it to be cut between the stem nodules for the best hydration. The carnations love the fresh water and the sweetmeat, thus put some sugar in the water. You can also add some lemon drops.
Daisy
It’s very alike the chrysanthemum, therefore the scientific name is Chrysanthemum leucantheum. Daisy is a resistant cut flower, though it’s fragility. As the best care, cut the stem till the green part, put it in tall vase, filled just for 3 quarts with water and add a drop of whitening substance.
Anemone
Depend of the type of flower, the anemone will resist between 5 and 8 days, maybe more, if it’s well attended. The stem has to be cut at a sharp angle. This flower prefer the cold water and the cold spaces, that you can get them into the fridge, for 1-2 hours, in a separated compartment, before their placement in water. Just like the anemones, the flowers with a fragile stem (freesia, for example), have to be doused till the flower.
Lily-of-the-valley
This flower will not resist more than 4-5 days since the gather and that so under a good care. You have to put it in fresh and not very cold water as soon as you can.
Crocus
The crocus’s cut flower doesn’t resist much time, just 3-4 days. As a bulb root flower, like the tulip, iris, daffodil etc, it loves the cold water, changed every day. The warm water speeds up the flourish. Is good that the white area from the stem’s base to be cut, because only the green part will absorb the water. You’ll get the crocus in small vases filled at 3 quarter with water.
Iris
Being tall, the iris cut flowers will be disposed in big vases filled a half with water. They love the cold fresh water, so change it ones at 2 days.
Dahlia
The availability of the dahlia is about 6 to 10 days. To maintain fresh the dahlia you have to follow those instructions: introduce the base of the stem in boiled water and keep them there till the water cooling or till the base becomes black; than you’ll cut the boiled side and finally put them into cold water.
Lilac
Though it’s a shrub, lilac is one of the most popular spring flower. To keep them long, you have to avert the leafs and smash the base of the stem, for a better hydration, than introduce it in boiled water. Don’t you forget that the lilac love the warm water and the sunlight. As a trick, you can put a little of sugar in the water.
Peony
The peony will be as fresh as the beginning into the vase from 7 to 10 days. The cut flowers are conserved in a cold place for 24 hours without water and thereafter you’ll cut 1 centimeter from the stem and put them in vases filled of warm water.
Gerbera
The gerberas, as well as the tulip, usually inflect their stem. There are some simple tricks for not to happen: prick the stem just under the flower, to get out the air deterrent the flower hydration or fill of water the empty stem and keep it with the flower turned downward overnight.
Poppy
It’s a not resistant flower. Although it’s a wild flower, the poppy is a fragile one, but loved for its full of passion color. As well as daffodil, the poppy’s stem excretes a pernicious substance that has to be eliminated. You could pass the stem through the fire or leave it in boiled water for 30 seconds, after you cut the stem 2 inches below the end.
Sunflower
This is a long life flower. As a cut flower, it last 6-12 days, but it’s a wonderful dry flower. There is a trick to avoid the blight: add in flower’s water 2% of liquid detergent.
You can also view:
more: http://www.flowersgrowing.com
About The Author
Angheliu Alexandru is a simple florist from Romania.
The roses are charming, but very sophisticated and pretentious flowers too. There are some tricks to prolong the rose’s life:
· It would be good, if it’s any possibility, to be conserved in a cold place, even the fridge, but not near the other products, for a few hours, after bought them.
· Cut the stem at a very sharp angle under the water and than let the water to flow over the stems for 3 minutes.
· Soften the base of the stem into mint oil before put in the vase.
· Add some lemon drops into flower’s water or a little salt.
· Introduce the roses till flower in a tall and full of water vase than leave them in a dark cold place even for 24 hours.
· For bacteria to be destroyed, add a drop of disinfecting substance in flowers water.
· The roses need to stay in tall vases, filled with warm water.
· You have to change the water daily.
Tulip
The tulip’s availability, as a cut flower, is from 8 to 10 days. The tulip doesn’t bear the water privation and the warmth. For a better hydration, you need to cut the white base of the stem under the water and put it in a cold, without draught space, into cold and fresh water. To maintain the water’s freshness and the flower’s natural colors, attach some small branches of Tuia. You can also put a metal coin. To avoid the tulip’s declension, you have to fill the vase with water or to wrap the flower into a paper, because the stem will turn towards the light.
Lily
The punks of the lily have their different opening phase, that the flower lives in water more than 1, maybe 2 weeks. For a long availability, you got to avert the full-blown flower’s stamens, before the pollen will spot the petals, fading them. To prolong the lily’s life, add in the water a spoon of white vinegar (it applies to the gladioluses, anemones too).
Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is one of the most resistant cut flower and it will decorate your house for a long time, more than 2 weeks. By hybridization, the chrysanthemum has a several numbers of petals, multiple colors, forms and sizes. For the best hydration, you’ll smash or cut the stem at a very sharp angle, eliminate the base leafs of the stem. A bouquet of chrysanthemum flowers has to be disposed in a large vase, so the flowers will not be crowded. You need to change frequently the water in the vase and powder the flowers with water, because the chrysanthemum loves the humidity.
Orchid
The orchids will decorate your place for 1 or 2 weeks, maybe more, if you offer them the best conditions. It’s important for you to know that the orchid, being an exotic flower, prefer a 26 degrees temperature. After gathering, the flowers have to be left in a cold space (10-15 degrees) for a couple of hours. Than put them in capacious vases. To refresh the orchids you’ll cut the stem and than put it in a boiled water, so the flowers will resist more. Keep them away from the draught, smoking or hot vapors (this is also a practice for the anthurium cut flower).
Daffodil
The daffodil cut flowers can resist from 4 to 8 days, if they are carefully attended. Their stems excrete a viscous substance which is speeding up the blight process. Therefore you’ll follow this practice: cut the stem at a very sharp angle 2 inches below the end, than pass it through the fire or leave it for a while in warm water, for the pest substance to be eliminated. You can use a combination of vinegar and salt to clean the daffodil’s vase.
Carnation
The carnation is a very resistant flower and is usually used in the arrangements that have no water supply. Some cultures consider the carnation a funeral flower, maybe for its resistance. It’s important for it to be cut between the stem nodules for the best hydration. The carnations love the fresh water and the sweetmeat, thus put some sugar in the water. You can also add some lemon drops.
Daisy
It’s very alike the chrysanthemum, therefore the scientific name is Chrysanthemum leucantheum. Daisy is a resistant cut flower, though it’s fragility. As the best care, cut the stem till the green part, put it in tall vase, filled just for 3 quarts with water and add a drop of whitening substance.
Anemone
Depend of the type of flower, the anemone will resist between 5 and 8 days, maybe more, if it’s well attended. The stem has to be cut at a sharp angle. This flower prefer the cold water and the cold spaces, that you can get them into the fridge, for 1-2 hours, in a separated compartment, before their placement in water. Just like the anemones, the flowers with a fragile stem (freesia, for example), have to be doused till the flower.
Lily-of-the-valley
This flower will not resist more than 4-5 days since the gather and that so under a good care. You have to put it in fresh and not very cold water as soon as you can.
Crocus
The crocus’s cut flower doesn’t resist much time, just 3-4 days. As a bulb root flower, like the tulip, iris, daffodil etc, it loves the cold water, changed every day. The warm water speeds up the flourish. Is good that the white area from the stem’s base to be cut, because only the green part will absorb the water. You’ll get the crocus in small vases filled at 3 quarter with water.
Iris
Being tall, the iris cut flowers will be disposed in big vases filled a half with water. They love the cold fresh water, so change it ones at 2 days.
Dahlia
The availability of the dahlia is about 6 to 10 days. To maintain fresh the dahlia you have to follow those instructions: introduce the base of the stem in boiled water and keep them there till the water cooling or till the base becomes black; than you’ll cut the boiled side and finally put them into cold water.
Lilac
Though it’s a shrub, lilac is one of the most popular spring flower. To keep them long, you have to avert the leafs and smash the base of the stem, for a better hydration, than introduce it in boiled water. Don’t you forget that the lilac love the warm water and the sunlight. As a trick, you can put a little of sugar in the water.
Peony
The peony will be as fresh as the beginning into the vase from 7 to 10 days. The cut flowers are conserved in a cold place for 24 hours without water and thereafter you’ll cut 1 centimeter from the stem and put them in vases filled of warm water.
Gerbera
The gerberas, as well as the tulip, usually inflect their stem. There are some simple tricks for not to happen: prick the stem just under the flower, to get out the air deterrent the flower hydration or fill of water the empty stem and keep it with the flower turned downward overnight.
Poppy
It’s a not resistant flower. Although it’s a wild flower, the poppy is a fragile one, but loved for its full of passion color. As well as daffodil, the poppy’s stem excretes a pernicious substance that has to be eliminated. You could pass the stem through the fire or leave it in boiled water for 30 seconds, after you cut the stem 2 inches below the end.
Sunflower
This is a long life flower. As a cut flower, it last 6-12 days, but it’s a wonderful dry flower. There is a trick to avoid the blight: add in flower’s water 2% of liquid detergent.
You can also view:
more: http://www.flowersgrowing.com
About The Author
Angheliu Alexandru is a simple florist from Romania.
04/11/09
How to Plant Root Crops and Salad Greens
How to Plant Root Crops and Salad Greens.
Learn how to plant root crops and salad greens. Learn how to plant radishes, spinach, turnips, beets and carrots.
Learn how to plant root crops and salad greens. Learn how to plant radishes, spinach, turnips, beets and carrots.
03/11/09
5 Tips on Flowers in the House by Owen Jones
Every house benefits from having flowers in it. Nowadays, many people feel guilty about having cut flowers in their houses, but if they are from your own garden and you only cut half and leave half for the bees and insects, there is no need for it. So lots more people grow flowers or plants in pots inside instead. I think that rooms look great with a combination of pot plants, which are not always in their flowering season and cut plants, although I only buy cut plants for someone else and only on special occasions We do display cut plants from our garden or, at least, my wife does. Living in the part of Thailand I do, makes that easy enough though as this country is so fertile, warm and wet that anything grows like wildfire. I will pass on our top five tips for caring for plants indoors, after I have shared this quotation:
Doing the flowers
Takes hours.
And when they're done,
They're done.
Still it's fun.
ANON.
The Pencil Test: if you are not sure when to water your indoor pot plant, stick a pencil into the earth along side the plant, taking care not to damage the roots. If the pencil comes out clean, the soil is too dry and needs watering.
A Good Soaking: azaleas have a reputation for being difficult and for flagging. They are not difficult if you do one thing, once a week It will cure flagging too. Azaleas like water, so, once a week, stand the pot in a bucket of water until the bubbles stop rising (my mother leaves the to stand in a sink full of water over night) and then leave to drain. Azaleas love rain too, so you could give them a spraying too. Just watch enjoying it.
Keeping Cyclamen: most people throw out their cyclamen after the New Year, when they start to look a bit worn out. However, this is not necessary. They are awkward to keep, if you don't realize that they like heat and little water. If you give those conditions to them, they will last for years and keep growing in size. The easiest way to do that is to always keep them frost-free after they have finished flowering. When there is no more chance of frost and the weather is picking up, place them under a north wall and leave them to sort themselves out. Don't give any water, only what God gives and no food. In September, bring them back in and start feeding and watering again. They should spring into life and flower again.
Split Level Flowering: you can get a far better and denser display or potted tulips if you put more than one tulip in a pot. That sounds obvious, doesn't it? However, I mean put one bulb (or two) 2 inches from the bottom of the pot; add more earth. Put one or two more; add more earth. Finally, put one or two more and cover as normal. The top ones will come up first and the bottom ones last, but the bottom ones will come up before the top ones die. Remember to feed and water for more than one bulb!
Holding Their Heads High: when you receive or cut a bunch of tulips, immediately push a pin through the stems just below the flower to make a hole and place in water. The tulips will remain fresher and stay upright for longer.
Owen Jones, the author of this article writes on several subjects, but is currently involved with the Plantronics CS50 USB headset system. If you would like to know more or check out great offers, please go to our website at Plantronics CS50 Headset.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Owen_Jones
Doing the flowers
Takes hours.
And when they're done,
They're done.
Still it's fun.
ANON.
The Pencil Test: if you are not sure when to water your indoor pot plant, stick a pencil into the earth along side the plant, taking care not to damage the roots. If the pencil comes out clean, the soil is too dry and needs watering.
A Good Soaking: azaleas have a reputation for being difficult and for flagging. They are not difficult if you do one thing, once a week It will cure flagging too. Azaleas like water, so, once a week, stand the pot in a bucket of water until the bubbles stop rising (my mother leaves the to stand in a sink full of water over night) and then leave to drain. Azaleas love rain too, so you could give them a spraying too. Just watch enjoying it.
Keeping Cyclamen: most people throw out their cyclamen after the New Year, when they start to look a bit worn out. However, this is not necessary. They are awkward to keep, if you don't realize that they like heat and little water. If you give those conditions to them, they will last for years and keep growing in size. The easiest way to do that is to always keep them frost-free after they have finished flowering. When there is no more chance of frost and the weather is picking up, place them under a north wall and leave them to sort themselves out. Don't give any water, only what God gives and no food. In September, bring them back in and start feeding and watering again. They should spring into life and flower again.
Split Level Flowering: you can get a far better and denser display or potted tulips if you put more than one tulip in a pot. That sounds obvious, doesn't it? However, I mean put one bulb (or two) 2 inches from the bottom of the pot; add more earth. Put one or two more; add more earth. Finally, put one or two more and cover as normal. The top ones will come up first and the bottom ones last, but the bottom ones will come up before the top ones die. Remember to feed and water for more than one bulb!
Holding Their Heads High: when you receive or cut a bunch of tulips, immediately push a pin through the stems just below the flower to make a hole and place in water. The tulips will remain fresher and stay upright for longer.
Owen Jones, the author of this article writes on several subjects, but is currently involved with the Plantronics CS50 USB headset system. If you would like to know more or check out great offers, please go to our website at Plantronics CS50 Headset.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Owen_Jones
02/11/09
How to Take Care of Your Flowers by Simon Hurley
Understanding how to take care of flowers is very vital for people who own gardens for flowers. Taking care of your flowers means you can enjoy them for long. Providing the required needs to the garden so as to have the best flowers can vary from flower species and the geographical location where one is. However it is important to note that there are basic things that you should know do about caring of garden flowers.
The first and most important step is to add three to four inch layer of the mulch. This should be done around the flower. This is for providing the much needed moisture and protection against unwanted weeds. Mulch +
will save you a lot of time in watering the flowers daily and removing the unwanted weeds every so often. This is something that many people ignore on their garden flowers. Also make sure that your planting beds are not too narrow.
Using a hoe to remove unwanted weed is also very important. Unwanted weed compete for the same nutrients with the flowers making the flowers less strong and unhealthy. However you should not always use a hoe when the weed is too close to the flowers,hand pulling the weed is the best option to prevent interfering with the rooting system because it may cause the flowers to dry or even uprooting them.
Some flowers needs stakes to be placed behind them. This is for flowers that are top heavy. The stakes should be about 10 inches below the fully grown flower plant. After placing the stakes you need to place a loose soft piece of cloth with a loop around the stake and the flower. This normally serves to help the plant grow upwards. Supplying water is very important especially if there is no adequate supply of rainfall. Use the best and most convenient method of irrigation to you such as drip irrigation or water the flowers using a sprinkler. This prevent the flowers from drying up.
Pinching annual flower plants will encourage more blooms to grow. This should be done early in the season and it also controls the plant height. Pruning off old flowers is very important to create more space for the new flowers. Use pruning shears and this should be done regularly while blooming is taking place. It is also very important to learn and familiarize yourself about the flowers that you are growing. This will help you to make the right choices on the chemicals that you should spray on flowers and the kind of fertilizer to use and the frequency of adding the fertilizer and other chemicals.
The other important thing that you should always pay attention to is you should plant the flowers at the rightful distance apart. If you plant flowers too close chances are that some flowers will be weak and others can dry up. There should be enough space and distance between flowers to enhance nutrients intakes and to have proper access to sunlight for photosynthesis.
About the Author
Simon Hurley is a keen gardener, with an interest in aquatics and particularly koi ponds. Simons Latest website focuses on Lawn and Garden Décor, and has articles covering topics such as: Lawn Statues to read.
The first and most important step is to add three to four inch layer of the mulch. This should be done around the flower. This is for providing the much needed moisture and protection against unwanted weeds. Mulch +
will save you a lot of time in watering the flowers daily and removing the unwanted weeds every so often. This is something that many people ignore on their garden flowers. Also make sure that your planting beds are not too narrow.
Using a hoe to remove unwanted weed is also very important. Unwanted weed compete for the same nutrients with the flowers making the flowers less strong and unhealthy. However you should not always use a hoe when the weed is too close to the flowers,hand pulling the weed is the best option to prevent interfering with the rooting system because it may cause the flowers to dry or even uprooting them.
Some flowers needs stakes to be placed behind them. This is for flowers that are top heavy. The stakes should be about 10 inches below the fully grown flower plant. After placing the stakes you need to place a loose soft piece of cloth with a loop around the stake and the flower. This normally serves to help the plant grow upwards. Supplying water is very important especially if there is no adequate supply of rainfall. Use the best and most convenient method of irrigation to you such as drip irrigation or water the flowers using a sprinkler. This prevent the flowers from drying up.
Pinching annual flower plants will encourage more blooms to grow. This should be done early in the season and it also controls the plant height. Pruning off old flowers is very important to create more space for the new flowers. Use pruning shears and this should be done regularly while blooming is taking place. It is also very important to learn and familiarize yourself about the flowers that you are growing. This will help you to make the right choices on the chemicals that you should spray on flowers and the kind of fertilizer to use and the frequency of adding the fertilizer and other chemicals.
The other important thing that you should always pay attention to is you should plant the flowers at the rightful distance apart. If you plant flowers too close chances are that some flowers will be weak and others can dry up. There should be enough space and distance between flowers to enhance nutrients intakes and to have proper access to sunlight for photosynthesis.
About the Author
Simon Hurley is a keen gardener, with an interest in aquatics and particularly koi ponds. Simons Latest website focuses on Lawn and Garden Décor, and has articles covering topics such as: Lawn Statues to read.
31/10/09
Annual Flowers for your Garden from A (Alyssum) to Z (Zinnia) by Larry Truett
A is for Alyssum, which makes a carpet of tiny blooms in whites, reds, and pinks.
B is for Begonia, which have dainty pink, red, or white flowers.
C is for Celosia, which have velvety red and orange plumes.
D is for Dahlia, which produce huge flowers in purple, red, pink, orange, or yellow.
E is for Everlasting, which annuals are not - they only bloom for one year.
F is for Four O' Clock, or Mirabilis jalapa, which as the name implies will open their blooms mid-afternoon.
G is for Geranium, with the classic red pink or white clusters of petals.
H is for Hollyhock, which has spires of flowers in purples and white, often with a different color in the center.
I is for Impatiens, with the delicate little white, pink, and red flowers that are some of the first to bloom in spring.
J is for Just, as in I'm going to just skip the letter J.
K is for Kale, which can have bright white or red leaves to brighten the garden all season.
L is for Lobelia, with their tiny and prolific cascading blue flowers.
M is for Marigold, with the brilliant yellow or orange flowers that are said to deter pests from the garden.
N is for Nasturtium, which are lovely vines with orange or red flowers that are both beautiful and edible.
O is for Osteospermum, an unusual daisy like flower that blooms in a rainbow of colors.
P is for Petunia, an old garden favorite with droopy petals in reds, pinks, whites, and even striped.
Q is for Quandry, as Q usually is for these lists.
R is for Rudbeckia, with bright yellow or orange daisy-like flowers.
S is for Snapdragons, the cheerful stalks of blooms that if you squeeze just right will look like they are snapping.
T is for Thunbergia, which has red or pink flowers with a distinctive dark "eye".
U is for Underground, which is where you plant most seeds.
V is for Viola, with delicate purple and yellow flowers which are often the very first annuals to bloom in spring.
W is for Water, as most annual flowers will need regular watering to look their best.
X is for Xeranthemum, an unusual flower in bright pink or white.
Y is for You, as in you should try some annual flowers in your garden.
Z is for Zinnia, with the dependable big blooms in red, pink, yellow, or white.
See more resources for buying and growing Annual Flower Seeds with listings of local garden centers and specialty mail order nurseries at http://www.GardeningWithLarry.com.
About the Author
I'm a freelance computer programmer living in San Diego California with my wife and our 3 cats. I enjoy hiking, gardening, reading, watching too much TV, and other nerdy stuff. I run a few websites including http://www.ModelTrainsWithLarry.com, http://www.GardeningWithLarry.com, and http://www.VeganUSofA.com.
B is for Begonia, which have dainty pink, red, or white flowers.
C is for Celosia, which have velvety red and orange plumes.
D is for Dahlia, which produce huge flowers in purple, red, pink, orange, or yellow.
E is for Everlasting, which annuals are not - they only bloom for one year.
F is for Four O' Clock, or Mirabilis jalapa, which as the name implies will open their blooms mid-afternoon.
G is for Geranium, with the classic red pink or white clusters of petals.
H is for Hollyhock, which has spires of flowers in purples and white, often with a different color in the center.
I is for Impatiens, with the delicate little white, pink, and red flowers that are some of the first to bloom in spring.
J is for Just, as in I'm going to just skip the letter J.
K is for Kale, which can have bright white or red leaves to brighten the garden all season.
L is for Lobelia, with their tiny and prolific cascading blue flowers.
M is for Marigold, with the brilliant yellow or orange flowers that are said to deter pests from the garden.
N is for Nasturtium, which are lovely vines with orange or red flowers that are both beautiful and edible.
O is for Osteospermum, an unusual daisy like flower that blooms in a rainbow of colors.
P is for Petunia, an old garden favorite with droopy petals in reds, pinks, whites, and even striped.
Q is for Quandry, as Q usually is for these lists.
R is for Rudbeckia, with bright yellow or orange daisy-like flowers.
S is for Snapdragons, the cheerful stalks of blooms that if you squeeze just right will look like they are snapping.
T is for Thunbergia, which has red or pink flowers with a distinctive dark "eye".
U is for Underground, which is where you plant most seeds.
V is for Viola, with delicate purple and yellow flowers which are often the very first annuals to bloom in spring.
W is for Water, as most annual flowers will need regular watering to look their best.
X is for Xeranthemum, an unusual flower in bright pink or white.
Y is for You, as in you should try some annual flowers in your garden.
Z is for Zinnia, with the dependable big blooms in red, pink, yellow, or white.
See more resources for buying and growing Annual Flower Seeds with listings of local garden centers and specialty mail order nurseries at http://www.GardeningWithLarry.com.
About the Author
I'm a freelance computer programmer living in San Diego California with my wife and our 3 cats. I enjoy hiking, gardening, reading, watching too much TV, and other nerdy stuff. I run a few websites including http://www.ModelTrainsWithLarry.com, http://www.GardeningWithLarry.com, and http://www.VeganUSofA.com.
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