All Tulips Look Alike...or Do They?

Are you one of those people who have a preconceived idea that all tulips look alike? Do you have the usual stereotyped picture of a tulip in your mind? You know the ones. Like the tulip pictures kids draw in school where the tulips all have a rounded bottom and three or four spikes at the top as the flower.

Well, believe it or not, there are several different flower types that sit atop a tulip stem. There can be shiny petals forming a bell-shaped, bowl-shaped or starry flower on top of each leafless stalk of a tulip.

Those tulips you pictured in your mind can be readily seen in the Lily-Flowered Tulips. Most often these are single flowers with long pointed petals that reflex at their tips. You might also see some similarity in the stereotyped idea of tulips in those small cup shaped flowers of the Single Early Tulips or the Triumph Tulips which have single flowers that are conical at first and then rounded. The similarities might even be seen in the Single Late Tulips, Rembrandt, Darwinian or Cottage Tulips.

So then, let's ask again, do all tulips look alike? Well, actually, no. True, there are many that fit the stereotype however, there are also those tulips that actually do look different.
There are the Double Early or Double Late Tulips with their long-lasting cup-shaped blooms chock full of flowers. Often referred to as being peony-like, some of these tulips may suffer from being too heavy for their stems.

There are also the Botanical Tulips with a wide range of flower shapes. Varieties and hybrids in which all or some of the original tulip features are present and some of the flowers open into colorful star-like blooms, also.

Then there are the Fringed Tulips. Single flowers with petals which are finely fringed at the edges, these showy blooms make for a beautiful focal point in any garden area.

Let's remember the Parrots, too, with their deeply frilled and wavy petals. These very large single flowers are the most spectacular of all Tulips. Quite eye-catching in the garden, these flamboyant blooms give an almost exotic appearance.

Yes, it's true, there are a lot of tulips that do look alike; however, there are just as many tulips with a very distinct look all their own.

About the Author
Robin, a gardening enthusiast, published and manages a website for people wanting to get their flower garden set up quickly 'n easily. You can check out some easy care plants on her site at Gardening Quick 'n Easy.

Gerbera daisy

There are about thirty different types of gerbera daises. You'll find that there are traditionally found in South America, Asia, Madagascar, and Africa. There are also other types of daisies, such as the Transvaal daisy or Barberton daisy. You'll want to keep in mind that the gerbera is brightly colored. You'll find that they come in a wide range of yellows, oranges, whites, pinks, or reds.

It is one flower; however, it is composed of hundreds of little flowers. It happens to be a very nice daisy to grow. First, you get to see the wonderful colors, but you are also able to grow something simple and carefree.

You don't have to waste a lot of time on growing daisies, however, you'll want to consider having a garden filled with daisies, because it's the only way that you'll be able to still keep it simple, classy, and easy. You'll also find that there are ways that you can mix and match the different types of daisies. This way you are able to get the best of both worlds.

Gerbera daisies are very popular and they are also widely used for decorative potting gardens, borders, and just accents to gardens. You will find that you can cut them and bring them into your home. When you bring these flowers into the house you'll be able to add some color to any room, but still be able to keep it traditional and simple.

These flowers are very unique because they have black centers. You'll find that they also can have several different colors when it comes to the petals. The petals can range in different hues to completely different colors. You'll find that this flower is one of the most used flowers when it comes to arrangements. You'll find that it comes fifth to the rose, carnation, tulip, and chrysanthemum.

If you are thinking about getting some seeds and planting these flowers you'll find that they can be very nice. You'll also be able to get these flowers as plants and be able to skip the seedling stage. If you would like you could always go to the local greenhouse and pick up some seeds, but then go home and grow them into seedling plants. This is a great way to become more evolved in the process.

Gerbera daisies are very different then the traditional daisy. First, you'll find that this daisy is much bigger. You'll also find that this daisy comes in only bright colors. Finally, you'll notice that the centers are black (usually). This is one of the best flowers to put into your garden because it is so simple to take care of, but also they make a lovely garden.

About the Author
Cheryl is a freelance garden writer. Find more articles by Cheryl at http://www.backyardliving.com

Caring For Climbing Rose Bushes Couldn't Be Easier

Caring for climbing rose plants is incredibly easy. Although growing traditional roses does take skill and special care, climbing roses are a bit easier for the beginning gardener to handle which makes them a great place to start. One of the joys of including roses in your garden is undoubtedly the fragrance they provide as well as the beautiful flowers. Who wouldn't love going outside and basking in the beauty and fragrance of a luscious rose-filled garden?

Besides adding beauty, the climbing variety in particular can also solve some of your home improvement projects. For example, does your view at home include the plain, ugly wall of a building - maybe a garage or utility shed? Or maybe you have a fence that, while still functional, has seen better days.

Due to the fact that rose vines grow up rather than out, they are the perfect solution to many of these landscaping eye-sores. Although there are many types of plants that can grow with climbing vines, roses are perhaps the most beautiful flower to be had. Why not go for the best and solve your problem with style?

Climbing roses are not difficult to grow. In fact, they can be downright simple - just make sure they will have plentiful sunshine, nutrient-dense soil and of course, a place to climb such as a trellis or fence. The best part of all for gardeners who are impatient is that these vines will grow quickly.

In order for your vine-filled trellis or fence to look its best, take care to perform the occasional pruning. Shaping your rose vines is not difficult, but you'll need to make sure they are properly trained to grow to the structure you've attached them to. You'll experience the most enjoyment from your flowers when you take these simple steps to ensure proper growth.

It should be noted that climbing roses are not the same as the variety you cut and use in bouquets. They are meant to be enjoyed in their natural, on-the-vine state. Keep that in mind when choosing the best location for your plants - you want to get as much enjoyment from them as possible.

One of the best things about roses is the variety available to choose from. The colors, sizes and types are nearly unlimited.

A favorite for those who hate rose thorns is the Zephirine Drouhin rose. Although not completely thorn-free, this purplish flower has almost thornless stems. With a sweet fragrance and beautiful bloom, this rose is sure to make an impression.

If you want to have a colorful and fragrant garden, consider adding one or more climbing rose bushes to the layout. And the beauty of it is, because these plants are so easy to manage, your friends and neighbors will think you have the greenest thumb on the block.

About the Author
Visit GreenThumbCorner.com at http://www.GreenThumbCorner.com for more information about climbing roses and other lawn and garden needs.

Winter Gardening

Just because the garden is asleep doesn't mean there isn't plenty to do for winter gardeners. Winter gardening takes advantage of little or no plant growth at this time of year to force us to concentrate on admittedly less attractive, but equally important tasks. There are many things you can do this time of year to make sure that your winter garden turns into the spring garden of your dreams.

*If the cold permits, use the winter in the garden to work on structure and hardscaping. This is a great time to plan or build arbors, built in seating, edging and paths. Winter allows you to see the bones of the garden to help you visualize where it needs some hardscaping. Perhaps your paths need to be redirected, or you see a spot that could use a trellis and some height. Take advantage of the bare winter garden to provide your plants with a background and structure.

*Use this time to redesign your flower beds. If you haven't already created a garden notebook, now is a good time to start. Draw a diagram of each part of your garden, and mark the spot of the flowers, shrubs and bulbs. You may have to add items as spring approaches, and up pops that plant you had forgotten about! Get a basic layout of your garden, and consider what worked last year, and what didn't. Note blank spots in the garden, and use paper templates to try new combinations of flowers within your beds. Color your paper templates to help you visualize the effect on the garden. Make a separate page for each plant you have in your garden, and note as much information as you can about it.

*This is the time to browse those garden seed catalogs! Don't wait until spring, by then it will be too late to grow from seed for this season for most plants. Consider ordering some new varieties of old garden favorites such as sunflowers, coneflower and foxglove.

*If you want to plant vegetables this year, now is the time to prepare your beds. Till or spade under your chosen vegetable plot, then add organic matter and fertilizer and till in. Allow to sit several weeks to settle, until proper plating time for your area. This will prevent any hot spots in the garden from your organic matter and fertilizer, and allow the soil to settle to prevent drying out of the roots.

*Start some seeds indoors to have plants ready to put out in the garden after last frost. Now is the time to grow those plants from seed you can't find at the nursery. Your indoor seed growing station can be as complicated as a deluxe indoor greenhouse with lights, or as simple as a re-used egg carton on a windowsill. Some easy plants to grow indoors from seed include most sun loving annuals and such perennials as Shasta Daisy, Black Eyed Susan, Coneflower, Coreopsis and many ornamental grasses. Growing perennials from seed can save you hundreds of dollars, as the average 4 inch pot perennial sells for $3-$6, and a packet of seeds that might produce 100 plants averages $2.

*Finally, go over all your tools and supplies, and find out what needs repair, attention or replacement. The last thing you want is for that first spring day to arrive and you rush out to pop those first seeds in the ground, only to find your gloves need to be replaced or your spade handle is breaking!

Just because the weather is cold doesn't mean gardeners must sleep! Use the time wisely, and you will be rewarded with plenty of time to enjoy those spring bulbs and fragrant flowers in just a short time!

About the Author
Want free gardening tips and ideas? Kathy Wilson is a home and garden writer, author and consultant and is the home decorating expert for LifetimeTV.com. Visit her for more home and garden ideas at http://www.TheGardenGlove.com and http://www.TheBudgetDecorator.com .

The Characteristics One Should Look For When Identifying Quality Flower Seeds

Anyone who takes a great interest in gardening should be aware of how important healthy flower seeds are for growing nice plants. Taking flowers through all the evolution stages from seed to blossom requires a lot of care, not to mention that harmonious development highly depends on the pre-plantation stages. There are a few things you should check in order to get an idea over the flower seeds you intend to use. Many gardeners consider that nothing compares with the flower seeds that you spare and preserve yourself; yet, if you do so, it is a must that you take all the measures necessary to prevent mold formation or any degradation caused by excessive humidity or dryness.

First of all, only those flower seeds that are absolutely perfect from a genetic point of view should be preserved: how can you tell the difference? The best way is to use some magnifying lenses and have a close look at the seeds so as to be able to spot minor defects. Unhealthy flower seeds are not likely to give life to strong and beautiful plants, whereas seeds that have the proper consistency and size are the most looked for. You can consult some gardening books and learn some tricks about how to preserve flower seeds well.

There are advantages and disadvantages about the flower seeds you can purchase directly from special stores or simply order online. Here we mainly refer to how old the flower seeds are, and what sort of chemical treatments they may have been exposed to so as to prevent decay. Quality flower seeds should have the same color even when dry, and you can tell the age of a seed by merely analyzing its color. The less intense the color, the older the seed. However, in order to be able to do that at home, your eyes must be familiar with the look of a healthy dry seed.

Furthermore, don't buy only the cheapest flower seeds you can find; you may save a few bucks, but you don't have the same quality warranty as when purchasing the seeds from a trustworthy and famous company. Always check the label of the product to find out whether the flower seeds have been exposed to any form of chemical treatment or not; usually, manufacturers must inscribe the preservation process on the package, and without such information, the quality of the seeds is not reliable.

Muna wa Wanjiru Has Been Researching and Reporting on Flowers for Years. For More Information on Flower Pots, Visit His Site at FLOWER SEEDS

About the author

Muna wa Wanjiru Has Been Researching and Reporting on Flowers for Years. For More Information on Flower Pots, Visit His Site at FLOWER SEEDS

The Differents Between True Lilies And Borrowed Lilies

Lilies generally start to bloom in late spring/early summer when the nights are cool and when the days are getting longer and warmer. Lilies are commonly split into two main groups: asiatics and orientals

Asiatic lilies are the first to bloom in may or june and they are very colorful with bright drastic colors: red, yellow, orange, purple, etc. these lilies are somewhat shorter than the orientals, e.g. three to four feet vs five to six feet. But usually they have no scent. They multiply readily. It is not uncommon to buy one asiatic lily one year and have four to six blooming lilies a few years later.

The Orientals bloom later in july or september. The flowers are usually larger, have greater texture, and can be extremely fragrant. The colors are more suttle and the texture of the petals tend to be more delicate. e.g. compare a strawberry milkshake, oriental, to a strawberry popcicle ,asiatic, for example. Orientals generally do not propagate as easily and readily as asiatics.

Many people believe that orientals are unsurpassed in beauty. Regal, tall, taking their time to flower, but the show is well worth it. Very large, textured flowers with unmistakable fragrance. Others love the screaming bright - in your face - colors of the asiatic lilies in spring when the the summer garden is still to develop.

There are of course exceptions. You can have asiatics which bloom very late, you have orientals which are not fragrant and which flower very early. There are also species lilies and very particular types of lilies which fall outside the two main groups. One example are the pumilum lilies which are high with a very high number of flowers pointing towards the ground, normally asiatics are upfacing and orientals are up or side facing. Minitaure, pixie, versions of orientals and asiatics also exists.

Tiger lilies are similar to asiatics except they are spotted and can carry lily virus inside them without showing it, like a trojan horse. The two main groups: asiatics and orientals are well established and best known. There is a lot of plants which borrow the lily name. Lilies, orientals, asiatics, pumilum, tiger, etc, are all of the genus "Lilium". Other plants may be known as 'lilies' but really they are not 'true lilies'.

Here are some for examples: Daylilies heremocalis, Calla lilies callas, Canna lilies cannas, Toad lily tricyrtis, Plantain lily hosta, Sword lily gladiolous etc. You may say that they are all 'lily wanna-bees'. A lot of people believe daylilies, canna lilies and calla lilies are part of the lily group. They are fundamentally different.

Stargazer lilies can grow in most of usa without problems and the climate in Massachusetts is not adverse to these. Holes in leaves are likely slugs who loves lilies. You can purchase slug bait from garden centers. Apply in very early spring as the lilies poke their head above ground, and then repeat about every three to four weeks, as long as the lilies are small.

As they grow taller you can stop applying snail bait. I still do it up until mid summer because it is amazing how high the snails can travel on the lilies and because we have other plants which also are attacked.

Lilies tend to get thin and spindly if allowed to grow in too dense shade. If shade is the problem, moving them to a a position with better sun should rectify in the problem. The problem can also be one of care. Lilies are pretty easy to care for, but you need to know the basics. Lilies which you want to come back should be fertilized two to three times during the growing period, in early spring as they poke their heads above ground, just before flowering and finally you can broadcast fertilizer over the ground in early fall.

After the lily has bloomed and the petals start to fall off, deadhead the flower. This is done by cutting the small stalk off which holds the flower to the main flower stem. Sometimes, small green puffy seed pods develop where the flower used to be. These should also be removed to preserve energy in the bulbs and avoid the lily spending energy on setting seeds.

Otherwise, leave the main flower stem alone. Many people mistakenly cut the flower stem back to the ground after flowering which removes the potential for the lily bulb to recharge for the following year. The lily needs the flower stem with it's green leaves to conduct photosynthesis, e.g. to recharge the bulb for next year's bloom.

A topdressing around the base of the plant every year with a good quality compost is also recommended. Fertilize two to three times per year. Deadhead spent flowers by removing the dead flowers plus seed pods. Do not restrict foliage, but allow the lily to grow until it turns brown on it's own in fall. If planted in too deep shade, move to a place with more sun. Apply a good layer of compost around the base of the lily in spring and fall, if possible.. optional. This would depend on you and what you think would be best for your lily.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowers4.info/. SendFlowers4.info is a great place to shop for flowers, gift baskets, and plants when you are looking for a special gift. Start here to search by "Special Occasion": http://www.SendFlowers4.info/category/occasions.html.

Gardenias And Their Care

There are a lot of people out there that have no luck with growing gardenias but then there are still those few that have very good luck with growing gardenias. Sounds to me like you have some magic powers when it comes to growing plants. At least when it comes to plants that no one else can grow. Let's first agree that although these Gardenia flowers sparkle like moondust with their pure white petals, although they send off a thick unforgettable fragrance so enchanting it goes right into perfume, growing them is pure science.

When growers cultivate these, they must know what makes them grow and what makes them flower, because those are the Gardenias that will fly off the shelves. You can use what they know to become a better Gardenia Gardener.

There is a report that some scientists put out on the study of gardenia plants it is called, "Flower Initiaition and development in gardenia plants as affected by photoperiod and night temperature." What scientists E. P. Makridou and A. S. Economou did was expose Gardenias just like yours to different daylengths: eight, 12 and sixteen hour days, for four weeks. Then they took all the Gardenias and exposed them to sixteen hours of daylight for four more weeks. Which Gardenias do you suppose had the most flowers?

The ones that began with eight hours of light, the ones with 12 hours of light Or the ones with 1sixteen hours of light? Turns out that the Gardenias that had the shorter days, and then switched to longer days, had the most flowers of all. The researchers concluded that 'short photoperiods promote flower bud initiation in Gardenia plants. But that's not all! They did another experiment.

This time, they exposed all their Gardenias to eight-hour days for four weeks and then split them up into three groups. These pots were now grown under different day lenghts eight, 12 and sixteen hours long. Guess the results for this experiment. Did changes in day length affect flowering? Answer: The ones that had long days for a full eight weeks and the days that were sixteen hours long flowered quickest. Then they did another test!

They wanted to know if night temperatures would have any effect on Gardenias. So they grew them all with eight hours of daylight and set the thermostat at 75 degrees F. When the lights went out, they lowered the temperature to while the night temperatures were kept at 55, 65 and 75 degrees F.

They did this for four weeks. Then they changed the night temperature. All Gardenias were now spending their nights in a 65-degree F room. They did this for four weeks. And they tried several other combinations of temperatures as well, all with the same eight hour day length.

Results: Gardenias flowered earliest when exposed to days and nights of 75 degrees F. All the Gardenias flowered. There was no other effect observed on the number of flowers. So if you want to use this research, you would want to give your Gardenia only eight hours of daylight for four weeks. Then you would make the day longer. You would give it sixteen hours of daylight. This Gardenia would have constant temperatures of 75 degrees F the whole time. And you would have Gardenias coming out of your ears.

If you put your Gardenia outside, you know it's going to get Aphids. But this is not a problem! Because you are going to run down to the Garden Center and pick up a nice big container of Ladybugs. Spray them with Sprite before you put them down. That will keep them from flying away. Sprinkle them around your Gardenia, in the middle of your Garden. If you have Roses, you can put them in the same area, and the Ladybugs will run around your garden hunting for Aphids, Mealybugs, Beetle larvae, ants, all kinds of insects you never knew you had.

No fuss, no muss. And you can get up close and personal with your Gardenia, you can eat your Gardenia, and there will be nothing poisonous there to make you sick. I love that most of all. If you keep your Gardenia potted, it will most certainly dry out very quickly. Growing one of these is not like growing them indoors. The great outdoors is full of surprises, and these Gardenias do not take dry soil kindly. Watch it very carefully if you do that. I do believe however the fresh air is good for everyone after a winter indoors.

They'll study that someday, but for now, it's my personal theory. Remember that humidity is always important for these plants, that a low pH is their comfort zone, and that when moving anything to a full sun exposure you should do it gradually to give leaves time to adjust their chlorophyll. If not then as I have said go to your local nursery and talk to them about your gardenia or you can go on the internet and do a search for gardenia and see what you come up with.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

Miniature Roses And How To Care For Them

Most of the mini roses you buy in the store are Florist roses, there is no guarantee that they will live for very long. I have seen exceptions. I have tried growing roses in a sunny windowsill - it must get at least 4 hours of sun a day, and you would have to water it at least one to two times per week. I would also take it outside and spray it with a fungicide/pesticide once a week, even indoors they can get bugs somehow and develop powdery mildew. Or, you can grow it outside, if you live in a temperate zone, in part-shade, again checking about every day for dryness.

I think mini-roses do better outside in part shade with about four to six hours of sun a day, then they would do inside in a sunny windowsill, but as I have said it is up to you. Usually mini-roses are grown on their own roots, so in a deep freeze, even if the top growth died, they could still grow back from the roots in the springtime. You can protect them from deep freezes by covering with a plastic tarp or a cold frame, do an internet search to find good deals on cold frames or mini/small greenhouses.

If you decide to buy more mini roses, you might try some designed for garden use, like End of the Rainbow, Rise N' Shine or Green Ice. Some other hardy varieties are: Antique Rose, Millie Walters, and Magic Carrousel which you could purchase from most Nursery. Jeanne La Joie is a miniature climber, and it grew to about 10 ft. tall. But, this is the exception, not the rule.

Most mini's don't grow that much larger in the ground than they do in the pot, at most maybe twice the width and a few inches taller. Some stay the same size. Again, it depends on the type of mini. You can do a search on the Help me find roses website. If not you can go to your local nursery and talk to them about getting roses.

Miniature Roses, also called Dwarf Roses, can be charming little plants with tiny leaves and flowers that are much smaller than Hybrid Teas. They vary in size. Some are only six inches tall when full grown. Some grow as large as 18 inches. They can be used as border plants, or as edgings because of their small size.

Possible red-flowered hybrids include Baby Masquerade, Beauty Secret, Dwarf King, Little Artist, Magic Carrousel, Midget, Red Cascade, Red Imp, Red Gilardi, Scarlet Gem, Starina and Tom Thumb - just for starters. But that's not important.

First things first. When a flower is finished blooming, when it no longer looks like a flower you would want to cut and put in a a vase in the kitchen, cut it off with a scissors. Don't let it turn brown, and then go to seed. Remove it. You can try planting it in the ground, the sunniest space in the yard is best. Roses need huge amounts of sun.

I highly recommend "Roses for Dummies." There are several pages specifically about Miniature Roses. You will find it informative and a very good introduction to a field that can be a little overwhelming to a newcomer. Pay extra special attention to your planted minirose in the autumn. There is a good chance it is not strong enough to survive our Zone 7 winters, even with Global Warming. Mulch carefully or cover with Burlap to keep it protected. If you don't want to buy a book then go to a nursey or to someone that loves to garden, friends or a family member.

I know they call them indoor mini roses, but they really are happier outside. A mini rose is no different than a garden rose and likes the same things. The atmosphere in a home is too dry for these small roses and it not only dries them out but also incourages spider mites which love a place that is dry and warm. The first thig to do is cut the rose back so that all the dry tips are cut off. Put the pot in a plastic bag, tie it tight at the base of the rose and then place it under a warm spray in the sink. Make sure that all the rose is soaking wet as spider mites hate water. Do this daily for three days.

Repot the mini into a larger pot using packaged soil so you know there will be no insects in it. Put a tespoon of some slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote 14-14-14 and that will give the plant a small amount of nutrients every time you water it. Place the mini in full sun and every day sprtiz it with water. Make sure the rose never dries out but don't get it soaking wet, just damp to the touch. The leaves may still drop for a couple of days, but they will come back nice and green and the plant will bloom for you. Putting the rose outside where it only gets morning and late afternoon sun also makes it healthier.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

How to Care for Orchids

Growing orchids is a very challenging task, they usually grow in the wild and you have to copy the environment from where they usually bloom and grow. To be able to grow beautiful orchids is a very rewarding experience and like any other houseplants, you can successfully grow beautiful orchids if you know how to care for orchids.

Orchids are very beautiful flowers with thousands of different species and they need special care and set-up to grow. Here are some helpful tips on how to care for orchids.

Proper light. One very important factor in the proper care for orchids is the light requirement of this plant. Watching the leaves of your orchids will help you determine if the plant is getting too much or little light. If the leaves become reddish or yellowish it means that your plant is getting too much light and you need to move the plant to more shade. If the leaves turn into dark green, then you need to move it to more light. A correct light will produce a light grass green leaves.

Watering. Of course like other plants, knowing how to care for your orchids includes correct watering. It is best to use rainwater than chemically treated water like tap water. There are a lot of factors to be considered in watering your orchids. One factor is the climatic conditions; you need to water more in the summer or when the weather is warm and less in the winter. The size of the pot is also another consideration when watering your orchid, small pots need frequent watering since it dry out faster than large pots. Correct watering will result in good, firm and healthy roots and over watered orchids will result in unhealthy and brown dead roots. Over watering is not a proper way to care for orchids; it will drown the roots and will easily kill your orchids. Orchids can stand being dryer than being over watered or moist.

Orchids need air. Proper care for orchids includes providing the needed air for their growth. Remember that in their natural habitat, orchids usually grow anchored in a tree with little or no soil and a lot of fresh air. Orchids can be planted on containers purposely designed to allow air circulation on their roots. Hanging baskets with coconut fiber is also another option that will allow air circulation on their roots. Air is very important in growing beautiful orchids.

Growing beautiful orchids is not as difficult as you think it is if you know the proper techniques on how to care for orchids. Do you want to learn how to care for and grow amazing orchids using easy to follow step-by-step techniques? Visit Orchid Care Expert

To know more about growing orchids visit Orchid Care Guide

About the author

Gerry Restrivera writes informative articles on various subjects including How to Care for Orchids. You are allowed to publish this article in its entirety provided that author’s name, bio and website links must remain intact and included with every reproduction.

Daisy Colorful Flowers

The most common daisy is the "Shasta Daisy", Chrysanthemum maximum which is a perennial. Sometimes, people buy a daisy which are described as Giant Daisy. It is a perennial, but it requires dry conditions in winter, or they may die. Wetness will kill it in the winter, not the cold.

You can plant it in containers, but then they are usually treated as annuals. If you store the container dry and cool for the winter, only watering the container when it is frost free, and the soil is throughly dry, you can overwinter the plants in an unheated garage, tool shed etc. If the planters are large, you can leave them outdoors. Remember to use a good container planting mix which drains well. Avoid clayish garden soil.

Daisies must be deadheaded and like full sun. Fertilize regularily through the summer. Although they like well draining soil, and prefers to stay on the dry side in winter, they should never be allowed to dry out in summer. Water regularily, and deeply, so that the soil is consistently moist. It helps to mulch the plant in summer to preserve moisture.

Gerberas belong to a genus of about 40 species of hairy perennialsfrom grassland in temperate and mountainous regions of Africa, Madagascar, Asia and Indonesia. They are half hardy to frost tender. The ones we mostly know are Gerbera jamesonii ,Barberton Daisy/Transvaal Daisy. Within this 'group' there are various cultivars e.g.

Californian Giants' which have single flowers in shades of yellow, apricot, orange, red, pink and the 'Pandora' series to name but two. These are the ones you find either as a cut flower or pot plant with their vibrant colours. They are a beautiful flower but have got a mind of their own when used in arrangements, where they tend to bend and twist, adding their own special magic to your display.

Gerbera, comes in a single stem, with no leaves and comes in wonderful colours from white, yellow, orange, red, through to shocking pink and magenta. They are a lovely vibrant flower which look stunning on their own in a vase with maybe a little bear grass. I would imagine that any florist relay organisation such as Interflora would be able to source these for you. I would be very surprised if they didn't.

Did you transplant them to a different container after you brought them home? If so, they are probably exhibiting signs of transplant shock which is very understandable with the huge blooms of a Gerbera Daisy. You should probably go ahead and cut off the oldest blooms so that the plant can start producing new blooms. Gerbera Daisies have such large brilliant colored flowers that it takes a little time to produce more.You can tell which are the oldest blooms just by noting the ones that are drooping the worst and the color of the bloom is usually a more faded shade of color than the newer ones.

Since you already used a fertilizer,wait a bit after cutting the old blooms, about one week Then get some Miracle Gro Bloom Buster, or any brand is fine as long as it is for blooms only. Annuals need a boost every now and then throughout the growing season. Mostly they just need a bit of patience and if you ignore them for awhile, they will usually surprise you and perk right up without any help at all.

But especially the Gerbera Daisy will have to be "deadheaded", old blooms removed, every now and then to produce maximum blooms. If you do experience weird weather changes, which is common in spring, and the temperature dips below 40 degrees, bring them in or cover them up.

Several weeks ago I planted Gerber Daisies in potted planters. They looked great for about a week but now they are drooping and sagging. I water every couple of days, however, they are only getting morning/early afternoon sun on my porch, so the soil doesn't really dry out that much. I added fertilizer to the potting soil mix when I planted them.

I have had to learn not to buy Gerber Daisies, for the reasons you mentioned. They do not hold up well. The nursery people have figured out how to get them to bloom beautifully in their greenhouses, and they look great in the stores, but when you get them home they fall apart. I understand they do like a somewhat dry soil, but not too dry. Probably shouldn't have fertilized them, since they probably already had fertilizer in the pot. They need "full" sun. They need some protection from the elements.

As pretty as they are, my recommendation is, pass them by in the store and find something less fussy to deal with. If you don't have a greenhouse that you can keep to a tempture that most of your plants like then as I have said just pass them right by in the store.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

Orchids Will Bloom Again

How long does it take for an orchid plant to rebloom? The answer is: it depends. I'm not trying to avoid your question, just being truthful. The truth of the matter of when an orchid will bloom again depends upon what kind of orchid it is. Most orchids will produce blooms once a year but there are some which are capable of producing blooms several time a year if the growing conditions are just right, if not quite right they should still bloom once a year. Since your orchid was in bloom last Christmas, my guess is that it should do so at that time again.

Since it is already October, if it were to bloom at Christmas time this year, it should be showing evidence of a new flower stem growing. But, depending upon what kind of orchid you have, it can take from one month to six months for a new flower stem to be in full bloom once it begins to grow.

On most orchids, once the flowers have all died and fallen off, you may remove the stem by cutting it off down near the base of the flower stem. Prior to cutting off the stem, take a look at the top or tip of the stem to see if it has begun to dry, if it does start to dry that means the stem is dying and may be removed. If there are any bulbs on the orchid, you should leave them alone as they are a store of moisture and nutrients for the orchid.

Most dendrobiums are not that hard to grow but getting them to bloom reliably is the hard part. Moving them to Florida will make it easier. Why? The climate and sunshine it will receive all year round rather than the cold darkness in Indiana. Dendrobiums prefer warm bright weather, they will sulk and even die under cold dark conditions.

From your description of them, I take it that they are of the evergreen family of dendrobiums. If they were from the deciduous family you would have mentioned that some of the growths had lost all their leaves. The primary difference between the two families is that evergreens do not like dry conditions while deciduous ones need a pronounced dry period.

Why your evergreen dendrobiums have not rebloomed for you is in what you said "Since it is so cold and dark here in Indiana". Whether in Indiana or Florida, place them in a location with bright indirect sunlight, temperatures between 60 to 85%F, humidity above 50%, light air movement around them. A good way to tell if it is getting enough light is to look at the leaves, they will be a medium green color when it is just right.

A word of caution if you take them to Florida, move them into any new light conditions slowly over several weeks, as too sudden an exposure to brighter light may cause sunburn of the leaves. If possible, try exposing them to temperatures in the mid 50%F's for a month in the fall, that may help trigger them into the bloom cycle.

If, by chance, the leaves fall off, leave the growths on the dendrobium as they are a storage mechanism for moisture and nutrients. Only remove the growths that appear to be dying. As for those new growths, they may appear to stop growing due to the cold dark weather but should perk back up once things warm up and they receive more light.

You do not have to wait for a bloom to identify the type of orchid that it is if it is one of the more commonly available orchids. The most common is "phalaenopsis" that has large roundish to oblong leaves at the base of the plant and the flower spike grows from the apex of the leaves. Other common types are "the dendrobium, the lady slippers, and the Cattleyas". Each has a distinctive vegetative structure. If there was no tag with the plant, then I'm afraid there is no way to know the name of the hybrid since so many different hybrids have similar flower types and colors.

There are three principal types of containers for orchids. Phalaenopsis and lady slipper orchids are usually grown in a plastic pot, the heavier or more top heavy plants such as dendrobiums or cattleyas are better maintained in clay pots. Baskets are reserved for vandaceous orchids and require a very humid environment because the mix dries out very quickly. I would use a commercially prepared orchid mix that you can buy in bags at garden centers and mass marketers. I would soak this mix overnight before using it and drain it well before potting up your orchid plant in it.

Orchids that have maroon leaves generally get that way from having grown in bright sunlight. That suggests to you that either it was neglected or it likes bright light. It is not uncommon for orchids to outgrow their pots. Many feel this is the time divide and repot the plant, but that is personal preference. Many orchids do just fine hanging way out of the pot.

Since I don't know what type of orchid you have, I can only hazard a guess that they are roots emerging from the pot drainage holes. Some orchids send out bloom spikes from the base of the plant but those are potted in baskets not clay pots.

For now, if the plant looks healthy,I would leave it as is until you get a further development such as flowering, plant die back, new growth starting,etc. Orchids put on new growth once a year and usually, but not always, in the spring. Just keep an eye on it and it should be fine. Then you will be able to know what type of orchid it is by the bloom. If not just go back to where you got the orchid and see if they know what type of orchid it is.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

The Strawberry Tree And Other Great Slow Growing Plants

One of the great things about being a gardener is that you never stop learning. Walking round a local park recently, (I live and work in central Israel) I came across a splendid old Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, and immediately wondered why I had neglected to even consider it for the private gardens I build. The principle reason can probably be traced to a reluctance, exacerbated no doubt by commercial pressures, to include some slow growing plants in the garden design. This bowing to the demand for quick results at any cost, leads us, professional and home gardener alike, to frequently prefer unsuitable but fast growing species, to slow growing ones that would be the best choice for a given situation. What after all is more important - how the garden looks 3 months after being built, or how it looks and feels five years later?

The Strawberry tree from Southern Europe is an ideal specimen for a Mediterranean and mild winter garden. It is evergreen, growing slowly to about 8-9 meters. It has an interesting sculptural form, becoming twisted and gnarled in maturity, and a uniquely beautiful peeling bark, revealing a reddish-brown trunk. Arbutus is one of those rare plants where the fruit and flowers appear simultaneously. Both are decorative, although the fruit while edible is not to everyone's taste!

There are in fact a number of advantages in growing slow growing trees over fast ones. The primary one being that they are mush easier to shape and train in the early years than many rampantly growing trees. Slow growing plants are typical to dry climates, while fast growing ones typically grow in tropical and sub-tropical regions. Clearly as the scarcity or abundance of water is a major factor determining the rate of growth of a particular species, it follows that slow growing plants are generally more suited to a water conserving regime than fast growing plants. The pine is another example to take note of. In Israel the rapidly growing Aleppo pine, Pinus halepensis, was the preferred choice in both parks and forestation projects. Unfortunately, its susceptibility to pests and disease has made it a rather regrettable choice. Nowadays the slow growing Stone pine, P. pinea is being used to far better long term effect. Let's not forget also the importance to a Mediterranean garden of the Olive tree and slow growing species of oak, as here one can see the correlation between slow growth and longevity.

With regards to landscape hedges, slow growing bushes like Carissa and Privet, are easier to keep in shape than those that grow rampantly like Bougainvillea or Clerodendron. Slower growth means less trimming, shearing and general maintenance. As for bushes and shrubs for use as informal hedges and screens, it can be a shame to give up on plants like Pittosporum, Myrtle, Pistacia and Nandina, just because they take a few years to fill in.

about the author

My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com

The Best Of The Lot! A Most Special Plant For A Dry Climate Garden

Is there an ornamental plant which makes a most beautiful and unusual sculptural silhouette, requires virtually no care and attention, and is extremely modest in its water needs? The answer is yes! It is the Bottle Palm, Nolina recurvata.

Nolina, by virtue of its thick trunk and meter long, grassy leaves, makes a very strong vertical accent in the garden, rising to some 3-4 meters, and even more after very many years. Its unique feature is the swollen base from which the trunk rises. On mature plants this can reach over a meter in diameter, and looks something like a giant onion.

Requiring little water, the Bottle Palm is ideally suited to dry landscape designs. It can be planted in a bed of decorative pebbles for instance, or in a mulch of wood chippings, and goes well with other plants of strong form such as Dracaena or Yucca. In fact it could serve as the focal point, or the dominant element in a composition based on ornamental grasses and grass-like plants. For example, it looks great billowing out of a carpet of low growing "grasses" like Festuca, Carex and Liriope.

Nolina should be used judiciously. It does not go well in my view with large-leaved and obviously tropical plants, but associates quite well with true palms. It is sometimes grown as a vertical emphasis in a carpet of flowers. Personally, I think this creates a certain amount of confusion, as the flower color and the strong lines of the Nolina compete for attention. Good design involves the correct relationship between a dominant factor, whether that be a sculptural plant or a mass of color, and a support factor such as a hedge or a green ground cover.

Nolina recurvata has to be about the easiest plant to grow. It is as close to being maintenance free as possible. Nonetheless, it does have its cultural requirements, which should be carefully noted.

*The most crucial is the need for excellent drainage. It is preferable to under-water Nolina than to over-water it. For this reason it should not be planted close to plants that require frequent watering, such as annual flowers. In such cases the bulb is liable to rot.

*Nolina requires full sun, but can get by in light shade

*Remember that this plant grows very slowly. As it needs room to grow, it should not be crowded out with competing species. Patience as ever is a virtue!

About the author

My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com