Spring and the Best Flowers to Plant by Drew Bowen

After a long, cold winter, you are probably anxious for the first signs of spring. Springtime automatically brings thoughts of flowers. Choosing the best flowers for spring can be difficult and it is often confusing. Perhaps the most effective way to ensure spring flowers that bloom each year is to plant bulbs in the fall to mid-winter. There are of course flowering plants that you can purchase from your local nursery, but you will want to make sure any chance of freezing weather has passed before planting and in many areas of the country, spring does not arrive until late in the season and by that time you will want to plants flowers in anticipation of summer. You always have the option of purchasing bulbs that have been grown in pots over the winter and are in stock in most garden centers beginning in the late winter months.

Here are a few choices of flowering plants that are suitable to plant now and will produce early spring flower:
Winter Aconite, or Eranthis hyemalis, will give you yellow flowers approximately three inches in height and resemble common buttercups. These particular bulbs may begin to flower as early as January if you live in a warm area and you will get the best results if you plant them in masses as they grow low to the ground.
Glory Of The Snow, or Chionodoxa luciliare, produce flowers that are bright blue with a white center. The plants will grow between six and ten inches tall, making this particular plant very handy for walkways, borders, and rock gardens. You may also be able to find white/pink varieties depending on the area in which you live
Spring Snowflake, or leucojum vernum, give you bell-shaped flowers that droop from the green part of the plant. These plants will be six to twelve inches in height and are white in color with small green spots on the ends of the petals. You will get the best results if you plant them in clumps and you can expect to see blooms in late February to early March. As with any other springtime bulb, they are best planted in the fall but you can plant in the mid to late winter if you purchase potted bulbs that have already begun the growing cycle.

Netted Iris, or iris reticulate, are wonderfully scented and are most commonly purple in color, although you can also find light blue and white irises in many areas. Irises are one of the earliest blooming plants and you can expect a beautiful display of flowers in early March. As with any other type of bulb, after several growing seasons you will have to thin the bulbs from time to time, as they tend to reproduce rapidly and could actually begin to stunt the growth of the plants due to over-crowding.

About the Author
Information on bamboo stalks can be found at the Bamboo Flower site.

Guide to Mulching Your Flower Bulbs by Britt Ramos

Flower bulbs need a good, long, winter's sleep. Like some people we know, if they wake up before they are fully rested they get kind of cranky, and then they don't bloom well at all.
Actually what happens is during a mild winter, the soil stays too warm and the bulbs begin to come out of dormancy early. They start to grow, and once the tips emerge above the soil line, they are subject to freezing if the temperatures dip back down below freezing. And that's usually what happens. After the bulbs have emerged, they freeze and then don't bloom at all, or if they do it's a very sad display.
Another reason this happens is because the bulbs are not planted deep enough. They may have been deep enough when you planted them, but as the soil goes through the freezing and thawing process, the bulbs can actually work their way up in the ground. One way to keep your flower bulbs sleeping longer, which will protect them from freezing, is to mulch the bed.
In the fall just apply a 3-4" layer of well composted mulch. This layer of mulch will do a couple of things. It will maintain a higher moisture content in the soil, which is good as long as the soil isn't too soggy. Well composted mulch also adds valuable organic matter to the planting bed. Organic matter makes a great natural fertilizer. A 3-4" layer of mulch also acts as an insulator. It will keep the soil from freezing for a while, which is good because you don't want the bulbs going through a series of short cycles of freezing and thawing. Then when the temperatures drop below freezing and stay there for a while, the soil does eventually freeze. Then the mulch actually works in reverse and keeps the soil from thawing out too early. Keeping it in a frozen state is actually good because the bulbs remain dormant for a longer period of time. When they finally do wake up it is spring time, and hopefully by the time they emerge from the ground the danger of a hard freeze is past and they will not be damaged. If you can keep them from freezing, they will flower beautifully. The extra organic matter will help to nourish the bulbs when they are done blooming, and the cycle starts all over again. We also plant annual flowers in the same beds with our spring bulbs. By the time the danger of frost is past and it's time to plant the annuals, the top of the bulbs have died back and are ready to be removed. The mulch that is added in the fall also helps to nourish the annual flowers, as well as improve the soil permanently. Any time you add well composted organic matter to your planting beds, you are bound to realize multiple benefits. The key words here are "well composted". Fresh material is not good.

About the Author
Find tips about indoor bamboo and growing bamboo indoors at the Bamboo Flower website.

How to Force Spring Flower Bulbs by Dee Power

Waiting for spring during the cold winter months doesn't have to mean staring at a bleak winter landscape wishing for warmer weather. Get a head start on spring with forced flower bulbs. Many varieties do well in pots when given the proper environment. A little planning ahead and the right types of bulbs is about all it takes.

Bulbs Lots of bulbs can be forced or tricked into blooming out of season. Most of them naturally flower in the spring time with a few exceptions. Easter or trumpet lilies are forced for very early spring blooming when they naturally bloom in mid summer. Amaryllis is forced for blooming during the winter holidays but naturally bloom in early summer.

Spring blooming bulbs include tulips, hyacinths, crocus, daffodils, tulips, and grape hyacinths.

Get the bulbs ready to grow Most spring bulbs require a period of cold to induce the flowering process. However, cold doesn't mean freezing. If the bulbs freeze they'll die. Keep the bulbs in a dark cool (below 40 degrees) place such as a garage, in the vegetable crisper of the fridge or planted in pots that are kept outside in a protected area. When the chilling period is within a week or two of the appropriate time check the tops of the bulbs for any new shoots. They'll appear as tiny very light green bumps. If you see them it's time to plant.

Tulips and hyacinths require the longest chilling period, 16 weeks. Crocuses require from 12 to 14 weeks. Daffodils from 10 to 12 weeks. Narcissus, a relative of daffodils don't require any chilling. Chilling times are approximate.

Planting Select a pot with drainage. Fill with three inches of soil. Place the bulb in the pot flat side down and pointed end up. If you have spotted the light green bumps, plant that end up. Cover the bulbs with soil and water thoroughly. Let drain. Do not over water or the bulbs will rot. Let them almost dry out completely between waterings. Keep in a cold dark area until the shoots are above the soil. Move to a warmer sunnier area.

Forced in water Bulbs will grow forced in water without soil. After the chilling period fill a clear glass or glass container with several inches of marbles. Place the bulb on top and add marbles up to the neck of the bulb. Fill the glass with water up to just over the bottom of the bulb. Place in a well lighted window. Keep the water level steady. Don't immerse the bulb in water. If the water gets cloudy change it completely.

About the Author

Find more gardening tips Dee Power is the author of several nonfiction books. She loves cooking and gardening and coming up with party ideas for kidsand Valentine Gift Ideas

Don't Kill Another Poinsettia by Gretchen Erle

I cannot even count how many poinsettias I've tossed in the trash, and if you're anything like me then you're probably guilty of poinsettia murder too. But did you know that if you follow a few tips you can enjoy the blooms next year? Coaxing them to come back is easier than you think-just keep the following guidelines in mind.


Keeping it alive


You'll have to make sure you keep your poinsettia alive this holiday season before you worry about getting it to come back next year. Just follow the advice below.


Sunlight


Poinsettias prefer indirect sunlight. You'll want to make sure your poinsettia receives 6 hours of indirect sunlight a day.


Watering


Abide by standard rules for watering houseplants and your poinsettias will be fine. After you get your new poinsettia home, be sure to give it a thorough watering. Make sure you never allow your poinsettia to sit in standing water, and only water it when the soil is dry to the touch since you don't want to overwater it. Never fertilize it when it is in bloom.


Temperature


Poinsettias like temperatures similar to what you like. Don't place them near drafts or heat vents, and keep temperatures in the 65-75 temperature range. Never put your poinsettia outside in the cold.


After the bloom


The flowers will eventually start dying. Don't change up its watering schedule but you should start fertilizing it every 2-3 weeks. Use a good all-purpose fertilizer and never fertilize it when it is blooming.


Once spring arrives you can start cutting it back. Put your plant outside so it can soak up some warm sunlight but make sure there is no chance of frost. You may want to transplant your poinsettia once springtime comes to an end. Find a pot that is a few inches larger than its current pot and try to use a potting mix that has peat moss in it.


Time to sleep


In order for your poinsettia to bloom again, you will have to expose it to conditions similar to what it's used to. You will need to make sure it has total darkness for 14 hours a day. You can just stick a large box over the top of the poinsettia.


During the remaining of the time expose your poinsettia to bright sunlight. Maintain its watering and fertilizing schedule.


If you follow the steps above then you should be able to enjoy its beauty next season as well!

About the Author

I am an avid gardener who loves plants, flowers and all things green! :-)

5 Tips on Flowers in the House by Owen Jones

Every house benefits from having flowers in it. Nowadays, many people feel guilty about having cut flowers in their houses, but if they are from your own garden and you only cut half and leave half for the bees and insects, there is no need for it. So lots more people grow flowers or plants in pots inside instead. I think that rooms look great with a combination of pot plants, which are not always in their flowering season and cut plants, although I only buy cut plants for someone else and only on special occasions We do display cut plants from our garden or, at least, my wife does. Living in the part of Thailand I do, makes that easy enough though as this country is so fertile, warm and wet that anything grows like wildfire. I will pass on our top five tips for caring for plants indoors, after I have shared this quotation:


Doing the flowers

Takes hours.

And when they're done,

They're done.

Still it's fun.

ANON.


The Pencil Test: if you are not sure when to water your indoor pot plant, stick a pencil into the earth along side the plant, taking care not to damage the roots. If the pencil comes out clean, the soil is too dry and needs watering.

A Good Soaking: azaleas have a reputation for being difficult and for flagging. They are not difficult if you do one thing, once a week It will cure flagging too. Azaleas like water, so, once a week, stand the pot in a bucket of water until the bubbles stop rising (my mother leaves the to stand in a sink full of water over night) and then leave to drain. Azaleas love rain too, so you could give them a spraying too. Just watch enjoying it.

Keeping Cyclamen: most people throw out their cyclamen after the New Year, when they start to look a bit worn out. However, this is not necessary. They are awkward to keep, if you don't realize that they like heat and little water. If you give those conditions to them, they will last for years and keep growing in size. The easiest way to do that is to always keep them frost-free after they have finished flowering. When there is no more chance of frost and the weather is picking up, place them under a north wall and leave them to sort themselves out. Don't give any water, only what God gives and no food. In September, bring them back in and start feeding and watering again. They should spring into life and flower again.

Split Level Flowering: you can get a far better and denser display or potted tulips if you put more than one tulip in a pot. That sounds obvious, doesn't it? However, I mean put one bulb (or two) 2 inches from the bottom of the pot; add more earth. Put one or two more; add more earth. Finally, put one or two more and cover as normal. The top ones will come up first and the bottom ones last, but the bottom ones will come up before the top ones die. Remember to feed and water for more than one bulb!

Holding Their Heads High: when you receive or cut a bunch of tulips, immediately push a pin through the stems just below the flower to make a hole and place in water. The tulips will remain fresher and stay upright for longer.

Owen Jones, the author of this article writes on several subjects, but is currently involved with the Plantronics CS50 USB headset system. If you would like to know more or check out great offers, please go to our website at Plantronics CS50 Headset.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Owen_Jones

How to Plant Flowers (The Home Depot)

Planting flowers

How to Take Care of Your Flowers by Simon Hurley

Understanding how to take care of flowers is very vital for people who own gardens for flowers. Taking care of your flowers means you can enjoy them for long. Providing the required needs to the garden so as to have the best flowers can vary from flower species and the geographical location where one is. However it is important to note that there are basic things that you should know do about caring of garden flowers.

The first and most important step is to add three to four inch layer of the mulch. This should be done around the flower. This is for providing the much needed moisture and protection against unwanted weeds. Mulch +
will save you a lot of time in watering the flowers daily and removing the unwanted weeds every so often. This is something that many people ignore on their garden flowers. Also make sure that your planting beds are not too narrow.

Using a hoe to remove unwanted weed is also very important. Unwanted weed compete for the same nutrients with the flowers making the flowers less strong and unhealthy. However you should not always use a hoe when the weed is too close to the flowers,hand pulling the weed is the best option to prevent interfering with the rooting system because it may cause the flowers to dry or even uprooting them.

Some flowers needs stakes to be placed behind them. This is for flowers that are top heavy. The stakes should be about 10 inches below the fully grown flower plant. After placing the stakes you need to place a loose soft piece of cloth with a loop around the stake and the flower. This normally serves to help the plant grow upwards. Supplying water is very important especially if there is no adequate supply of rainfall. Use the best and most convenient method of irrigation to you such as drip irrigation or water the flowers using a sprinkler. This prevent the flowers from drying up.

Pinching annual flower plants will encourage more blooms to grow. This should be done early in the season and it also controls the plant height. Pruning off old flowers is very important to create more space for the new flowers. Use pruning shears and this should be done regularly while blooming is taking place. It is also very important to learn and familiarize yourself about the flowers that you are growing. This will help you to make the right choices on the chemicals that you should spray on flowers and the kind of fertilizer to use and the frequency of adding the fertilizer and other chemicals.
The other important thing that you should always pay attention to is you should plant the flowers at the rightful distance apart. If you plant flowers too close chances are that some flowers will be weak and others can dry up. There should be enough space and distance between flowers to enhance nutrients intakes and to have proper access to sunlight for photosynthesis.

About the Author

Simon Hurley is a keen gardener, with an interest in aquatics and particularly koi ponds. Simons Latest website focuses on Lawn and Garden Décor, and has articles covering topics such as: Lawn Statues to read.

Annual Flowers for your Garden from A (Alyssum) to Z (Zinnia) by Larry Truett

A is for Alyssum, which makes a carpet of tiny blooms in whites, reds, and pinks.

B is for Begonia, which have dainty pink, red, or white flowers.

C is for Celosia, which have velvety red and orange plumes.

D is for Dahlia, which produce huge flowers in purple, red, pink, orange, or yellow.

E is for Everlasting, which annuals are not - they only bloom for one year.

F is for Four O' Clock, or Mirabilis jalapa, which as the name implies will open their blooms mid-afternoon.

G is for Geranium, with the classic red pink or white clusters of petals.

H is for Hollyhock, which has spires of flowers in purples and white, often with a different color in the center.

I is for Impatiens, with the delicate little white, pink, and red flowers that are some of the first to bloom in spring.

J is for Just, as in I'm going to just skip the letter J.

K is for Kale, which can have bright white or red leaves to brighten the garden all season.

L is for Lobelia, with their tiny and prolific cascading blue flowers.

M is for Marigold, with the brilliant yellow or orange flowers that are said to deter pests from the garden.

N is for Nasturtium, which are lovely vines with orange or red flowers that are both beautiful and edible.

O is for Osteospermum, an unusual daisy like flower that blooms in a rainbow of colors.

P is for Petunia, an old garden favorite with droopy petals in reds, pinks, whites, and even striped.

Q is for Quandry, as Q usually is for these lists.

R is for Rudbeckia, with bright yellow or orange daisy-like flowers.

S is for Snapdragons, the cheerful stalks of blooms that if you squeeze just right will look like they are snapping.

T is for Thunbergia, which has red or pink flowers with a distinctive dark "eye".

U is for Underground, which is where you plant most seeds.

V is for Viola, with delicate purple and yellow flowers which are often the very first annuals to bloom in spring.

W is for Water, as most annual flowers will need regular watering to look their best.

X is for Xeranthemum, an unusual flower in bright pink or white.

Y is for You, as in you should try some annual flowers in your garden.

Z is for Zinnia, with the dependable big blooms in red, pink, yellow, or white.

See more resources for buying and growing Annual Flower Seeds with listings of local garden centers and specialty mail order nurseries at http://www.GardeningWithLarry.com.

About the Author

I'm a freelance computer programmer living in San Diego California with my wife and our 3 cats. I enjoy hiking, gardening, reading, watching too much TV, and other nerdy stuff. I run a few websites including http://www.ModelTrainsWithLarry.com, http://www.GardeningWithLarry.com, and http://www.VeganUSofA.com.

Fragrant Orchids

Fragrant orchids are a pleasure to raise for their sweet perfume and exotic appearance. There are certain species of orchids that are more fragrant than others.

Fragrant Orchids - The Science of Fragrance Orchids have evolved into particular shapes, colors and smells to attract pollinators, so they may reproduce. Some orchids attract only a few very specific pollinators, so they have fragrance when these pollinators are the most active, either by day or by night.

Orchid fragrance is an oily substance found in glands called osmopheres on the outside edges of the orchid's roots, leaves and flowers. This oily fragrant substance will change into vapor form, enabling the plant to smell. Not all orchid fragrances can be sensed by humans. These specific fragrances are what primarily attract the insects that pollinate the orchid.

The orchid flower's fragrance is produced at a time daily when the pollinators are the most active, so the fragrance can have maximum effect. For instance, some orchids, namely the Phalenophilus, are fragrant only at night, and are white or other very light colors because they are pollinated by moths.

It is believed that over half of all orchids are pollinated during the day by bees and wasps. The orchid flowers have scents like narcissus, lilly of the valley and sweet peas. The colors of the flowers tend to be bright blue, yellow, purple or green.

Fragrant Orchids - The Orchids That Have Delightful Aromas What follows is a list of some of the most fragrant orchids. It is not comprehensive, but lists a few types of orchids that have noticeable aromas. Ada glumacea - strong fruity aroma
Rhyncholaelia digbyana - citrus-like scent
Brassavola cucullata - sweet smelling aroma
Angraecum Longiscott Hihimanu - sweet aroma at night
Zygopetalum B.G. White Stonehurst - intense sweet aroma
Maxillaria tenuifolia - smells like coconut
Den. Delicatum Brechts - smells like wintergreen
Epidendrums Veitchii - mild rose-like aroma
Cattleyas have a strong sweet aroma
Oncidium Sharry Baby - smells of chocolate
Oncidium ornithorynchum - very sweet smell
Rhyncholaelia glauca - strong aroma at night
Cymbidium Golden Elf Sundust - smells of sweet bath powder
Cymbidium tracyanum - peaches
Epidendrum parkinsonianumm - aroma of cloves at night
Epidendrum L. purpurata - licorice

Anna M. Hartman

About the Author

Fragrant orchids are a pleasure to raise for their sweet perfume and exotic appearance. Learn about giving the proper care to your fragrant orchids by reading the Orchid Care Expert, you will find the process greatly simplified. Please visit us at Fragrant Orchids to learn about fragrant orchids.

All Tulips Look Alike...or Do They?

Are you one of those people who have a preconceived idea that all tulips look alike? Do you have the usual stereotyped picture of a tulip in your mind? You know the ones. Like the tulip pictures kids draw in school where the tulips all have a rounded bottom and three or four spikes at the top as the flower.

Well, believe it or not, there are several different flower types that sit atop a tulip stem. There can be shiny petals forming a bell-shaped, bowl-shaped or starry flower on top of each leafless stalk of a tulip.

Those tulips you pictured in your mind can be readily seen in the Lily-Flowered Tulips. Most often these are single flowers with long pointed petals that reflex at their tips. You might also see some similarity in the stereotyped idea of tulips in those small cup shaped flowers of the Single Early Tulips or the Triumph Tulips which have single flowers that are conical at first and then rounded. The similarities might even be seen in the Single Late Tulips, Rembrandt, Darwinian or Cottage Tulips.

So then, let's ask again, do all tulips look alike? Well, actually, no. True, there are many that fit the stereotype however, there are also those tulips that actually do look different.
There are the Double Early or Double Late Tulips with their long-lasting cup-shaped blooms chock full of flowers. Often referred to as being peony-like, some of these tulips may suffer from being too heavy for their stems.

There are also the Botanical Tulips with a wide range of flower shapes. Varieties and hybrids in which all or some of the original tulip features are present and some of the flowers open into colorful star-like blooms, also.

Then there are the Fringed Tulips. Single flowers with petals which are finely fringed at the edges, these showy blooms make for a beautiful focal point in any garden area.

Let's remember the Parrots, too, with their deeply frilled and wavy petals. These very large single flowers are the most spectacular of all Tulips. Quite eye-catching in the garden, these flamboyant blooms give an almost exotic appearance.

Yes, it's true, there are a lot of tulips that do look alike; however, there are just as many tulips with a very distinct look all their own.

About the Author
Robin, a gardening enthusiast, published and manages a website for people wanting to get their flower garden set up quickly 'n easily. You can check out some easy care plants on her site at Gardening Quick 'n Easy.

Gerbera daisy

There are about thirty different types of gerbera daises. You'll find that there are traditionally found in South America, Asia, Madagascar, and Africa. There are also other types of daisies, such as the Transvaal daisy or Barberton daisy. You'll want to keep in mind that the gerbera is brightly colored. You'll find that they come in a wide range of yellows, oranges, whites, pinks, or reds.

It is one flower; however, it is composed of hundreds of little flowers. It happens to be a very nice daisy to grow. First, you get to see the wonderful colors, but you are also able to grow something simple and carefree.

You don't have to waste a lot of time on growing daisies, however, you'll want to consider having a garden filled with daisies, because it's the only way that you'll be able to still keep it simple, classy, and easy. You'll also find that there are ways that you can mix and match the different types of daisies. This way you are able to get the best of both worlds.

Gerbera daisies are very popular and they are also widely used for decorative potting gardens, borders, and just accents to gardens. You will find that you can cut them and bring them into your home. When you bring these flowers into the house you'll be able to add some color to any room, but still be able to keep it traditional and simple.

These flowers are very unique because they have black centers. You'll find that they also can have several different colors when it comes to the petals. The petals can range in different hues to completely different colors. You'll find that this flower is one of the most used flowers when it comes to arrangements. You'll find that it comes fifth to the rose, carnation, tulip, and chrysanthemum.

If you are thinking about getting some seeds and planting these flowers you'll find that they can be very nice. You'll also be able to get these flowers as plants and be able to skip the seedling stage. If you would like you could always go to the local greenhouse and pick up some seeds, but then go home and grow them into seedling plants. This is a great way to become more evolved in the process.

Gerbera daisies are very different then the traditional daisy. First, you'll find that this daisy is much bigger. You'll also find that this daisy comes in only bright colors. Finally, you'll notice that the centers are black (usually). This is one of the best flowers to put into your garden because it is so simple to take care of, but also they make a lovely garden.

About the Author
Cheryl is a freelance garden writer. Find more articles by Cheryl at http://www.backyardliving.com

The Characteristics One Should Look For When Identifying Quality Flower Seeds

Anyone who takes a great interest in gardening should be aware of how important healthy flower seeds are for growing nice plants. Taking flowers through all the evolution stages from seed to blossom requires a lot of care, not to mention that harmonious development highly depends on the pre-plantation stages. There are a few things you should check in order to get an idea over the flower seeds you intend to use. Many gardeners consider that nothing compares with the flower seeds that you spare and preserve yourself; yet, if you do so, it is a must that you take all the measures necessary to prevent mold formation or any degradation caused by excessive humidity or dryness.

First of all, only those flower seeds that are absolutely perfect from a genetic point of view should be preserved: how can you tell the difference? The best way is to use some magnifying lenses and have a close look at the seeds so as to be able to spot minor defects. Unhealthy flower seeds are not likely to give life to strong and beautiful plants, whereas seeds that have the proper consistency and size are the most looked for. You can consult some gardening books and learn some tricks about how to preserve flower seeds well.

There are advantages and disadvantages about the flower seeds you can purchase directly from special stores or simply order online. Here we mainly refer to how old the flower seeds are, and what sort of chemical treatments they may have been exposed to so as to prevent decay. Quality flower seeds should have the same color even when dry, and you can tell the age of a seed by merely analyzing its color. The less intense the color, the older the seed. However, in order to be able to do that at home, your eyes must be familiar with the look of a healthy dry seed.

Furthermore, don't buy only the cheapest flower seeds you can find; you may save a few bucks, but you don't have the same quality warranty as when purchasing the seeds from a trustworthy and famous company. Always check the label of the product to find out whether the flower seeds have been exposed to any form of chemical treatment or not; usually, manufacturers must inscribe the preservation process on the package, and without such information, the quality of the seeds is not reliable.

Muna wa Wanjiru Has Been Researching and Reporting on Flowers for Years. For More Information on Flower Pots, Visit His Site at FLOWER SEEDS

About the author

Muna wa Wanjiru Has Been Researching and Reporting on Flowers for Years. For More Information on Flower Pots, Visit His Site at FLOWER SEEDS

The Differents Between True Lilies And Borrowed Lilies

Lilies generally start to bloom in late spring/early summer when the nights are cool and when the days are getting longer and warmer. Lilies are commonly split into two main groups: asiatics and orientals

Asiatic lilies are the first to bloom in may or june and they are very colorful with bright drastic colors: red, yellow, orange, purple, etc. these lilies are somewhat shorter than the orientals, e.g. three to four feet vs five to six feet. But usually they have no scent. They multiply readily. It is not uncommon to buy one asiatic lily one year and have four to six blooming lilies a few years later.

The Orientals bloom later in july or september. The flowers are usually larger, have greater texture, and can be extremely fragrant. The colors are more suttle and the texture of the petals tend to be more delicate. e.g. compare a strawberry milkshake, oriental, to a strawberry popcicle ,asiatic, for example. Orientals generally do not propagate as easily and readily as asiatics.

Many people believe that orientals are unsurpassed in beauty. Regal, tall, taking their time to flower, but the show is well worth it. Very large, textured flowers with unmistakable fragrance. Others love the screaming bright - in your face - colors of the asiatic lilies in spring when the the summer garden is still to develop.

There are of course exceptions. You can have asiatics which bloom very late, you have orientals which are not fragrant and which flower very early. There are also species lilies and very particular types of lilies which fall outside the two main groups. One example are the pumilum lilies which are high with a very high number of flowers pointing towards the ground, normally asiatics are upfacing and orientals are up or side facing. Minitaure, pixie, versions of orientals and asiatics also exists.

Tiger lilies are similar to asiatics except they are spotted and can carry lily virus inside them without showing it, like a trojan horse. The two main groups: asiatics and orientals are well established and best known. There is a lot of plants which borrow the lily name. Lilies, orientals, asiatics, pumilum, tiger, etc, are all of the genus "Lilium". Other plants may be known as 'lilies' but really they are not 'true lilies'.

Here are some for examples: Daylilies heremocalis, Calla lilies callas, Canna lilies cannas, Toad lily tricyrtis, Plantain lily hosta, Sword lily gladiolous etc. You may say that they are all 'lily wanna-bees'. A lot of people believe daylilies, canna lilies and calla lilies are part of the lily group. They are fundamentally different.

Stargazer lilies can grow in most of usa without problems and the climate in Massachusetts is not adverse to these. Holes in leaves are likely slugs who loves lilies. You can purchase slug bait from garden centers. Apply in very early spring as the lilies poke their head above ground, and then repeat about every three to four weeks, as long as the lilies are small.

As they grow taller you can stop applying snail bait. I still do it up until mid summer because it is amazing how high the snails can travel on the lilies and because we have other plants which also are attacked.

Lilies tend to get thin and spindly if allowed to grow in too dense shade. If shade is the problem, moving them to a a position with better sun should rectify in the problem. The problem can also be one of care. Lilies are pretty easy to care for, but you need to know the basics. Lilies which you want to come back should be fertilized two to three times during the growing period, in early spring as they poke their heads above ground, just before flowering and finally you can broadcast fertilizer over the ground in early fall.

After the lily has bloomed and the petals start to fall off, deadhead the flower. This is done by cutting the small stalk off which holds the flower to the main flower stem. Sometimes, small green puffy seed pods develop where the flower used to be. These should also be removed to preserve energy in the bulbs and avoid the lily spending energy on setting seeds.

Otherwise, leave the main flower stem alone. Many people mistakenly cut the flower stem back to the ground after flowering which removes the potential for the lily bulb to recharge for the following year. The lily needs the flower stem with it's green leaves to conduct photosynthesis, e.g. to recharge the bulb for next year's bloom.

A topdressing around the base of the plant every year with a good quality compost is also recommended. Fertilize two to three times per year. Deadhead spent flowers by removing the dead flowers plus seed pods. Do not restrict foliage, but allow the lily to grow until it turns brown on it's own in fall. If planted in too deep shade, move to a place with more sun. Apply a good layer of compost around the base of the lily in spring and fall, if possible.. optional. This would depend on you and what you think would be best for your lily.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowers4.info/. SendFlowers4.info is a great place to shop for flowers, gift baskets, and plants when you are looking for a special gift. Start here to search by "Special Occasion": http://www.SendFlowers4.info/category/occasions.html.

Gardenias And Their Care

There are a lot of people out there that have no luck with growing gardenias but then there are still those few that have very good luck with growing gardenias. Sounds to me like you have some magic powers when it comes to growing plants. At least when it comes to plants that no one else can grow. Let's first agree that although these Gardenia flowers sparkle like moondust with their pure white petals, although they send off a thick unforgettable fragrance so enchanting it goes right into perfume, growing them is pure science.

When growers cultivate these, they must know what makes them grow and what makes them flower, because those are the Gardenias that will fly off the shelves. You can use what they know to become a better Gardenia Gardener.

There is a report that some scientists put out on the study of gardenia plants it is called, "Flower Initiaition and development in gardenia plants as affected by photoperiod and night temperature." What scientists E. P. Makridou and A. S. Economou did was expose Gardenias just like yours to different daylengths: eight, 12 and sixteen hour days, for four weeks. Then they took all the Gardenias and exposed them to sixteen hours of daylight for four more weeks. Which Gardenias do you suppose had the most flowers?

The ones that began with eight hours of light, the ones with 12 hours of light Or the ones with 1sixteen hours of light? Turns out that the Gardenias that had the shorter days, and then switched to longer days, had the most flowers of all. The researchers concluded that 'short photoperiods promote flower bud initiation in Gardenia plants. But that's not all! They did another experiment.

This time, they exposed all their Gardenias to eight-hour days for four weeks and then split them up into three groups. These pots were now grown under different day lenghts eight, 12 and sixteen hours long. Guess the results for this experiment. Did changes in day length affect flowering? Answer: The ones that had long days for a full eight weeks and the days that were sixteen hours long flowered quickest. Then they did another test!

They wanted to know if night temperatures would have any effect on Gardenias. So they grew them all with eight hours of daylight and set the thermostat at 75 degrees F. When the lights went out, they lowered the temperature to while the night temperatures were kept at 55, 65 and 75 degrees F.

They did this for four weeks. Then they changed the night temperature. All Gardenias were now spending their nights in a 65-degree F room. They did this for four weeks. And they tried several other combinations of temperatures as well, all with the same eight hour day length.

Results: Gardenias flowered earliest when exposed to days and nights of 75 degrees F. All the Gardenias flowered. There was no other effect observed on the number of flowers. So if you want to use this research, you would want to give your Gardenia only eight hours of daylight for four weeks. Then you would make the day longer. You would give it sixteen hours of daylight. This Gardenia would have constant temperatures of 75 degrees F the whole time. And you would have Gardenias coming out of your ears.

If you put your Gardenia outside, you know it's going to get Aphids. But this is not a problem! Because you are going to run down to the Garden Center and pick up a nice big container of Ladybugs. Spray them with Sprite before you put them down. That will keep them from flying away. Sprinkle them around your Gardenia, in the middle of your Garden. If you have Roses, you can put them in the same area, and the Ladybugs will run around your garden hunting for Aphids, Mealybugs, Beetle larvae, ants, all kinds of insects you never knew you had.

No fuss, no muss. And you can get up close and personal with your Gardenia, you can eat your Gardenia, and there will be nothing poisonous there to make you sick. I love that most of all. If you keep your Gardenia potted, it will most certainly dry out very quickly. Growing one of these is not like growing them indoors. The great outdoors is full of surprises, and these Gardenias do not take dry soil kindly. Watch it very carefully if you do that. I do believe however the fresh air is good for everyone after a winter indoors.

They'll study that someday, but for now, it's my personal theory. Remember that humidity is always important for these plants, that a low pH is their comfort zone, and that when moving anything to a full sun exposure you should do it gradually to give leaves time to adjust their chlorophyll. If not then as I have said go to your local nursery and talk to them about your gardenia or you can go on the internet and do a search for gardenia and see what you come up with.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

Miniature Roses And How To Care For Them

Most of the mini roses you buy in the store are Florist roses, there is no guarantee that they will live for very long. I have seen exceptions. I have tried growing roses in a sunny windowsill - it must get at least 4 hours of sun a day, and you would have to water it at least one to two times per week. I would also take it outside and spray it with a fungicide/pesticide once a week, even indoors they can get bugs somehow and develop powdery mildew. Or, you can grow it outside, if you live in a temperate zone, in part-shade, again checking about every day for dryness.

I think mini-roses do better outside in part shade with about four to six hours of sun a day, then they would do inside in a sunny windowsill, but as I have said it is up to you. Usually mini-roses are grown on their own roots, so in a deep freeze, even if the top growth died, they could still grow back from the roots in the springtime. You can protect them from deep freezes by covering with a plastic tarp or a cold frame, do an internet search to find good deals on cold frames or mini/small greenhouses.

If you decide to buy more mini roses, you might try some designed for garden use, like End of the Rainbow, Rise N' Shine or Green Ice. Some other hardy varieties are: Antique Rose, Millie Walters, and Magic Carrousel which you could purchase from most Nursery. Jeanne La Joie is a miniature climber, and it grew to about 10 ft. tall. But, this is the exception, not the rule.

Most mini's don't grow that much larger in the ground than they do in the pot, at most maybe twice the width and a few inches taller. Some stay the same size. Again, it depends on the type of mini. You can do a search on the Help me find roses website. If not you can go to your local nursery and talk to them about getting roses.

Miniature Roses, also called Dwarf Roses, can be charming little plants with tiny leaves and flowers that are much smaller than Hybrid Teas. They vary in size. Some are only six inches tall when full grown. Some grow as large as 18 inches. They can be used as border plants, or as edgings because of their small size.

Possible red-flowered hybrids include Baby Masquerade, Beauty Secret, Dwarf King, Little Artist, Magic Carrousel, Midget, Red Cascade, Red Imp, Red Gilardi, Scarlet Gem, Starina and Tom Thumb - just for starters. But that's not important.

First things first. When a flower is finished blooming, when it no longer looks like a flower you would want to cut and put in a a vase in the kitchen, cut it off with a scissors. Don't let it turn brown, and then go to seed. Remove it. You can try planting it in the ground, the sunniest space in the yard is best. Roses need huge amounts of sun.

I highly recommend "Roses for Dummies." There are several pages specifically about Miniature Roses. You will find it informative and a very good introduction to a field that can be a little overwhelming to a newcomer. Pay extra special attention to your planted minirose in the autumn. There is a good chance it is not strong enough to survive our Zone 7 winters, even with Global Warming. Mulch carefully or cover with Burlap to keep it protected. If you don't want to buy a book then go to a nursey or to someone that loves to garden, friends or a family member.

I know they call them indoor mini roses, but they really are happier outside. A mini rose is no different than a garden rose and likes the same things. The atmosphere in a home is too dry for these small roses and it not only dries them out but also incourages spider mites which love a place that is dry and warm. The first thig to do is cut the rose back so that all the dry tips are cut off. Put the pot in a plastic bag, tie it tight at the base of the rose and then place it under a warm spray in the sink. Make sure that all the rose is soaking wet as spider mites hate water. Do this daily for three days.

Repot the mini into a larger pot using packaged soil so you know there will be no insects in it. Put a tespoon of some slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote 14-14-14 and that will give the plant a small amount of nutrients every time you water it. Place the mini in full sun and every day sprtiz it with water. Make sure the rose never dries out but don't get it soaking wet, just damp to the touch. The leaves may still drop for a couple of days, but they will come back nice and green and the plant will bloom for you. Putting the rose outside where it only gets morning and late afternoon sun also makes it healthier.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

How to Care for Orchids

Growing orchids is a very challenging task, they usually grow in the wild and you have to copy the environment from where they usually bloom and grow. To be able to grow beautiful orchids is a very rewarding experience and like any other houseplants, you can successfully grow beautiful orchids if you know how to care for orchids.

Orchids are very beautiful flowers with thousands of different species and they need special care and set-up to grow. Here are some helpful tips on how to care for orchids.

Proper light. One very important factor in the proper care for orchids is the light requirement of this plant. Watching the leaves of your orchids will help you determine if the plant is getting too much or little light. If the leaves become reddish or yellowish it means that your plant is getting too much light and you need to move the plant to more shade. If the leaves turn into dark green, then you need to move it to more light. A correct light will produce a light grass green leaves.

Watering. Of course like other plants, knowing how to care for your orchids includes correct watering. It is best to use rainwater than chemically treated water like tap water. There are a lot of factors to be considered in watering your orchids. One factor is the climatic conditions; you need to water more in the summer or when the weather is warm and less in the winter. The size of the pot is also another consideration when watering your orchid, small pots need frequent watering since it dry out faster than large pots. Correct watering will result in good, firm and healthy roots and over watered orchids will result in unhealthy and brown dead roots. Over watering is not a proper way to care for orchids; it will drown the roots and will easily kill your orchids. Orchids can stand being dryer than being over watered or moist.

Orchids need air. Proper care for orchids includes providing the needed air for their growth. Remember that in their natural habitat, orchids usually grow anchored in a tree with little or no soil and a lot of fresh air. Orchids can be planted on containers purposely designed to allow air circulation on their roots. Hanging baskets with coconut fiber is also another option that will allow air circulation on their roots. Air is very important in growing beautiful orchids.

Growing beautiful orchids is not as difficult as you think it is if you know the proper techniques on how to care for orchids. Do you want to learn how to care for and grow amazing orchids using easy to follow step-by-step techniques? Visit Orchid Care Expert

To know more about growing orchids visit Orchid Care Guide

About the author

Gerry Restrivera writes informative articles on various subjects including How to Care for Orchids. You are allowed to publish this article in its entirety provided that author’s name, bio and website links must remain intact and included with every reproduction.

Daisy Colorful Flowers

The most common daisy is the "Shasta Daisy", Chrysanthemum maximum which is a perennial. Sometimes, people buy a daisy which are described as Giant Daisy. It is a perennial, but it requires dry conditions in winter, or they may die. Wetness will kill it in the winter, not the cold.

You can plant it in containers, but then they are usually treated as annuals. If you store the container dry and cool for the winter, only watering the container when it is frost free, and the soil is throughly dry, you can overwinter the plants in an unheated garage, tool shed etc. If the planters are large, you can leave them outdoors. Remember to use a good container planting mix which drains well. Avoid clayish garden soil.

Daisies must be deadheaded and like full sun. Fertilize regularily through the summer. Although they like well draining soil, and prefers to stay on the dry side in winter, they should never be allowed to dry out in summer. Water regularily, and deeply, so that the soil is consistently moist. It helps to mulch the plant in summer to preserve moisture.

Gerberas belong to a genus of about 40 species of hairy perennialsfrom grassland in temperate and mountainous regions of Africa, Madagascar, Asia and Indonesia. They are half hardy to frost tender. The ones we mostly know are Gerbera jamesonii ,Barberton Daisy/Transvaal Daisy. Within this 'group' there are various cultivars e.g.

Californian Giants' which have single flowers in shades of yellow, apricot, orange, red, pink and the 'Pandora' series to name but two. These are the ones you find either as a cut flower or pot plant with their vibrant colours. They are a beautiful flower but have got a mind of their own when used in arrangements, where they tend to bend and twist, adding their own special magic to your display.

Gerbera, comes in a single stem, with no leaves and comes in wonderful colours from white, yellow, orange, red, through to shocking pink and magenta. They are a lovely vibrant flower which look stunning on their own in a vase with maybe a little bear grass. I would imagine that any florist relay organisation such as Interflora would be able to source these for you. I would be very surprised if they didn't.

Did you transplant them to a different container after you brought them home? If so, they are probably exhibiting signs of transplant shock which is very understandable with the huge blooms of a Gerbera Daisy. You should probably go ahead and cut off the oldest blooms so that the plant can start producing new blooms. Gerbera Daisies have such large brilliant colored flowers that it takes a little time to produce more.You can tell which are the oldest blooms just by noting the ones that are drooping the worst and the color of the bloom is usually a more faded shade of color than the newer ones.

Since you already used a fertilizer,wait a bit after cutting the old blooms, about one week Then get some Miracle Gro Bloom Buster, or any brand is fine as long as it is for blooms only. Annuals need a boost every now and then throughout the growing season. Mostly they just need a bit of patience and if you ignore them for awhile, they will usually surprise you and perk right up without any help at all.

But especially the Gerbera Daisy will have to be "deadheaded", old blooms removed, every now and then to produce maximum blooms. If you do experience weird weather changes, which is common in spring, and the temperature dips below 40 degrees, bring them in or cover them up.

Several weeks ago I planted Gerber Daisies in potted planters. They looked great for about a week but now they are drooping and sagging. I water every couple of days, however, they are only getting morning/early afternoon sun on my porch, so the soil doesn't really dry out that much. I added fertilizer to the potting soil mix when I planted them.

I have had to learn not to buy Gerber Daisies, for the reasons you mentioned. They do not hold up well. The nursery people have figured out how to get them to bloom beautifully in their greenhouses, and they look great in the stores, but when you get them home they fall apart. I understand they do like a somewhat dry soil, but not too dry. Probably shouldn't have fertilized them, since they probably already had fertilizer in the pot. They need "full" sun. They need some protection from the elements.

As pretty as they are, my recommendation is, pass them by in the store and find something less fussy to deal with. If you don't have a greenhouse that you can keep to a tempture that most of your plants like then as I have said just pass them right by in the store.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

Orchids Will Bloom Again

How long does it take for an orchid plant to rebloom? The answer is: it depends. I'm not trying to avoid your question, just being truthful. The truth of the matter of when an orchid will bloom again depends upon what kind of orchid it is. Most orchids will produce blooms once a year but there are some which are capable of producing blooms several time a year if the growing conditions are just right, if not quite right they should still bloom once a year. Since your orchid was in bloom last Christmas, my guess is that it should do so at that time again.

Since it is already October, if it were to bloom at Christmas time this year, it should be showing evidence of a new flower stem growing. But, depending upon what kind of orchid you have, it can take from one month to six months for a new flower stem to be in full bloom once it begins to grow.

On most orchids, once the flowers have all died and fallen off, you may remove the stem by cutting it off down near the base of the flower stem. Prior to cutting off the stem, take a look at the top or tip of the stem to see if it has begun to dry, if it does start to dry that means the stem is dying and may be removed. If there are any bulbs on the orchid, you should leave them alone as they are a store of moisture and nutrients for the orchid.

Most dendrobiums are not that hard to grow but getting them to bloom reliably is the hard part. Moving them to Florida will make it easier. Why? The climate and sunshine it will receive all year round rather than the cold darkness in Indiana. Dendrobiums prefer warm bright weather, they will sulk and even die under cold dark conditions.

From your description of them, I take it that they are of the evergreen family of dendrobiums. If they were from the deciduous family you would have mentioned that some of the growths had lost all their leaves. The primary difference between the two families is that evergreens do not like dry conditions while deciduous ones need a pronounced dry period.

Why your evergreen dendrobiums have not rebloomed for you is in what you said "Since it is so cold and dark here in Indiana". Whether in Indiana or Florida, place them in a location with bright indirect sunlight, temperatures between 60 to 85%F, humidity above 50%, light air movement around them. A good way to tell if it is getting enough light is to look at the leaves, they will be a medium green color when it is just right.

A word of caution if you take them to Florida, move them into any new light conditions slowly over several weeks, as too sudden an exposure to brighter light may cause sunburn of the leaves. If possible, try exposing them to temperatures in the mid 50%F's for a month in the fall, that may help trigger them into the bloom cycle.

If, by chance, the leaves fall off, leave the growths on the dendrobium as they are a storage mechanism for moisture and nutrients. Only remove the growths that appear to be dying. As for those new growths, they may appear to stop growing due to the cold dark weather but should perk back up once things warm up and they receive more light.

You do not have to wait for a bloom to identify the type of orchid that it is if it is one of the more commonly available orchids. The most common is "phalaenopsis" that has large roundish to oblong leaves at the base of the plant and the flower spike grows from the apex of the leaves. Other common types are "the dendrobium, the lady slippers, and the Cattleyas". Each has a distinctive vegetative structure. If there was no tag with the plant, then I'm afraid there is no way to know the name of the hybrid since so many different hybrids have similar flower types and colors.

There are three principal types of containers for orchids. Phalaenopsis and lady slipper orchids are usually grown in a plastic pot, the heavier or more top heavy plants such as dendrobiums or cattleyas are better maintained in clay pots. Baskets are reserved for vandaceous orchids and require a very humid environment because the mix dries out very quickly. I would use a commercially prepared orchid mix that you can buy in bags at garden centers and mass marketers. I would soak this mix overnight before using it and drain it well before potting up your orchid plant in it.

Orchids that have maroon leaves generally get that way from having grown in bright sunlight. That suggests to you that either it was neglected or it likes bright light. It is not uncommon for orchids to outgrow their pots. Many feel this is the time divide and repot the plant, but that is personal preference. Many orchids do just fine hanging way out of the pot.

Since I don't know what type of orchid you have, I can only hazard a guess that they are roots emerging from the pot drainage holes. Some orchids send out bloom spikes from the base of the plant but those are potted in baskets not clay pots.

For now, if the plant looks healthy,I would leave it as is until you get a further development such as flowering, plant die back, new growth starting,etc. Orchids put on new growth once a year and usually, but not always, in the spring. Just keep an eye on it and it should be fine. Then you will be able to know what type of orchid it is by the bloom. If not just go back to where you got the orchid and see if they know what type of orchid it is.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

Grow Herbs For Cooking, Companion Plants And Flowers

Herbs are such versatile plants. Their uses include medicinal, cosmetic, as essential oils for aromatherapy, as great companion plants, craft-work and of course to add mouth-watering flavours and aromas in our cooking.
I really wonder how some people get by without herbs in their garden. How wonderful is it wander outside and pick a variety of fresh herbs for your main meal? If you haven't grown herbs before, just start with some really easy to grow herbs that you find particularly useful. I have an organic garden, so everything is free from chemicals.

Most people would use parsley, oregano and thyme. These are very easy herbs to grow. Oregano and thyme may spread a little in your garden and if you let your parsley eventually go to seed you will find new plants (volunteers) pop up all over your garden by themselves. I love this natural process of self seeding. My garden is a little on the wild side. But if you prefer a very neat and tidy garden, don't let your herbs go to seed, or pull out any volunteers growing in an undesirable spot. You can either remove the old plant to make way for new plants or cut off the seed heads. I always let my parsley go to seed. Some seeds make it to the ground, producing volunteers, so I always have enough to cut for culinary uses. The rest of the seeds I dry and also use in cooking.

Borage will grow almost anywhere through the warmer months. It is a great companion plant to strawberries, tomatoes and squash. Plus it looks pretty in the garden with its purple / blue, star-shaped flowers. It will also readily self-seed. The chooks love it, so when I have too many seedlings pop up they go to the chooks.

Rosemary and lavender have multiple uses. Both can be used in craft. Both attract bees. Both can be grown as wonderful looking and smelling hedges.

Grow at least a few clumps of chives or garlic chives. They look amazing when grown in clumps - even as a border in your flower garden. Chives look stunning when they're in flower. Chives have pink, round flowers, while garlic chives have white star-shaped flowers. Grow garlic chives for times when you don't have any garlic, or you want a milder flavour.

A good tip is to make sure you keep all mints contained in some kind of pot. If it escapes into your garden it may take over! I love having mint available, so I grow it in an old laundry trough.
Lemon balm is another herb that can get out of control. Cutting off the seed heads will keep it in check.

A bay tree is a great addition to your garden. You can grow it in a pot if space is an issue - they look lovely clipped into a nice shape. Or you can grow it in the ground where it may grow to be a small to medium tree.

Once you've grown a few herbs and learn of their many uses I'm sure you'll be hooked. The herbs in this article are all very easy to grow and propagate, so start with these and try others as your knowledge grows. With a little research you will discover so many uses for herbs, including many wonderful health benefits. They are also excellent companion plants. Some have properties that confuse and deter pests, some attract predatory insects, while others give more vigour or flavour to plants grown near them.
Many herbs are also excellent activators for your compost heap. Most herbs are easy to grow, take very little time, space or effort and the rewards are delicious. Good luck growing yours.

About the author

Julie is an avid organic gardener and recycler, living on a small country property in South Australia. Her mission is to encourage as many people as possible to garden organically. Please visit her website for great organic gardening tips & info or Companion Planting Guide
www.1stoporganicgardening.com

Flowers You Can Eat - Nasturtiums

Flowers, so bright and cheerful, raise your vibe without even trying. Edible flowers take that energy into the centre of your being, especially when they also have medicinal properties like the gorgeous nasturtium. Their flowers are bright trumpets, heralding sunny days. As children we used to pick the nasturtium flowers, bite off the point at the back of the flower and suck out the nectar, the merest fairy sized sip of sweetness.

The plants grow easily and prolifically from seed, tumbling out of planters with abandon, flowering all shades of fire colours from vermilion to ochre. All they need is moisture and not too rich a soil and you're guaranteed a harvest. Anyone with a herb garden can find a space for a few seeds, though if space is limited confine them to a container or they will happily tumble over all your other herbs.

Nasturtium flowers make cheerful posies as a centrepiece for a lunch table, especially if you have planted a mixture of colours, ranging from gold through bright orange to deep fiery red. Arrange them with a few sprigs of other herbs such as rosemary and fennel to add some texture, lavender flowers for contrast and you have an edible, scented bouquet, perfect to take as a gift when you visit friends.

The nasturtium's best kept secret though is that both the leaves and flowers are edible. Their sharp peppery tang lends a bite of interest to salads and can be a real boon to a jaded palate when the shops only offer bland varieties of lettuce. A few of the round green nasturtium leaves, that look like they could be parasols for mice or fairies, will lift a bland iceberg or butter lettuce into the realms of designer cooking, their bright flowers scattered over to delight the eye and bring an element of fun to your table.

Recipe for a Nasturtium Salad:

1 lettuce

- iceberg, butter or cossmall bunch of nasturtiums

- leaves and flowersripe red tomatoes1 tablespoon capersfeta cheese

Decide quantities to your own taste. The nasturtium leaves are peppery and the more you put in the hotter the salad gets. Wash and dry the lettuce and tear into the size pieces you prefer. Rinse the nasturtium leaves, and tear or chop into rough strips. If you're using baby tomatoes halve them, chop bigger ones into cubes. Cube the feta cheese and sprinkle over the salad with the capers. Top with the whole flowers and maybe one or two whole leaves. This peppery, bright salad is just right to accompany pizza, cold meats or as a starter on its own.

The round leaves are a potent medicinal weapon against sore throats. At the first sign of a sore throat, chew on a nasturtium leaf every two hours. This can sometimes get rid of the sore throat altogether, at others it just prevents it getting too bad. The leaves have natural anti-bacterial properties and are rich in vitamin C. They can also be made into a tea by infusing a few leaves in a cup of boiling water for five minutes and sipped either straight or with the addition of a teaspoon of honey.

In ancient times in its native Peru the nasturtium was used as a wound disinfectant and taken onto battle fields to be used as a poultice and a disinfectant wash. Not bad for a pretty garden flower!

Copyright2007 Kit Heathcock

About the Author
Kit Heathcock writes and copyedits for a number of websites from her own site Original Orange. She is currently working on a major travel website Just the Planet and is also co-creator of A Flower Gallery.