Everything about Flowers and Plants

02/01/2008

Daisy Colorful Flowers

The most common daisy is the "Shasta Daisy", Chrysanthemum maximum which is a perennial. Sometimes, people buy a daisy which are described as Giant Daisy. It is a perennial, but it requires dry conditions in winter, or they may die. Wetness will kill it in the winter, not the cold.

You can plant it in containers, but then they are usually treated as annuals. If you store the container dry and cool for the winter, only watering the container when it is frost free, and the soil is throughly dry, you can overwinter the plants in an unheated garage, tool shed etc. If the planters are large, you can leave them outdoors. Remember to use a good container planting mix which drains well. Avoid clayish garden soil.

Daisies must be deadheaded and like full sun. Fertilize regularily through the summer. Although they like well draining soil, and prefers to stay on the dry side in winter, they should never be allowed to dry out in summer. Water regularily, and deeply, so that the soil is consistently moist. It helps to mulch the plant in summer to preserve moisture.

Gerberas belong to a genus of about 40 species of hairy perennialsfrom grassland in temperate and mountainous regions of Africa, Madagascar, Asia and Indonesia. They are half hardy to frost tender. The ones we mostly know are Gerbera jamesonii ,Barberton Daisy/Transvaal Daisy. Within this 'group' there are various cultivars e.g.

Californian Giants' which have single flowers in shades of yellow, apricot, orange, red, pink and the 'Pandora' series to name but two. These are the ones you find either as a cut flower or pot plant with their vibrant colours. They are a beautiful flower but have got a mind of their own when used in arrangements, where they tend to bend and twist, adding their own special magic to your display.

Gerbera, comes in a single stem, with no leaves and comes in wonderful colours from white, yellow, orange, red, through to shocking pink and magenta. They are a lovely vibrant flower which look stunning on their own in a vase with maybe a little bear grass. I would imagine that any florist relay organisation such as Interflora would be able to source these for you. I would be very surprised if they didn't.

Did you transplant them to a different container after you brought them home? If so, they are probably exhibiting signs of transplant shock which is very understandable with the huge blooms of a Gerbera Daisy. You should probably go ahead and cut off the oldest blooms so that the plant can start producing new blooms. Gerbera Daisies have such large brilliant colored flowers that it takes a little time to produce more.You can tell which are the oldest blooms just by noting the ones that are drooping the worst and the color of the bloom is usually a more faded shade of color than the newer ones.

Since you already used a fertilizer,wait a bit after cutting the old blooms, about one week Then get some Miracle Gro Bloom Buster, or any brand is fine as long as it is for blooms only. Annuals need a boost every now and then throughout the growing season. Mostly they just need a bit of patience and if you ignore them for awhile, they will usually surprise you and perk right up without any help at all.

But especially the Gerbera Daisy will have to be "deadheaded", old blooms removed, every now and then to produce maximum blooms. If you do experience weird weather changes, which is common in spring, and the temperature dips below 40 degrees, bring them in or cover them up.

Several weeks ago I planted Gerber Daisies in potted planters. They looked great for about a week but now they are drooping and sagging. I water every couple of days, however, they are only getting morning/early afternoon sun on my porch, so the soil doesn't really dry out that much. I added fertilizer to the potting soil mix when I planted them.

I have had to learn not to buy Gerber Daisies, for the reasons you mentioned. They do not hold up well. The nursery people have figured out how to get them to bloom beautifully in their greenhouses, and they look great in the stores, but when you get them home they fall apart. I understand they do like a somewhat dry soil, but not too dry. Probably shouldn't have fertilized them, since they probably already had fertilizer in the pot. They need "full" sun. They need some protection from the elements.

As pretty as they are, my recommendation is, pass them by in the store and find something less fussy to deal with. If you don't have a greenhouse that you can keep to a tempture that most of your plants like then as I have said just pass them right by in the store.

About the author

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowersGift.info/. SendFlowersGift.info offers same day flower delivery within the US and Canada, as well as fast worldwide delivery to international destinations. Start here to search by "Occasion":

Orchids Will Bloom Again

How long does it take for an orchid plant to rebloom? The answer is: it depends. I'm not trying to avoid your question, just being truthful. The truth of the matter of when an orchid will bloom again depends upon what kind of orchid it is. Most orchids will produce blooms once a year but there are some which are capable of producing blooms several time a year if the growing conditions are just right, if not quite right they should still bloom once a year. Since your orchid was in bloom last Christmas, my guess is that it should do so at that time again.

Since it is already October, if it were to bloom at Christmas time this year, it should be showing evidence of a new flower stem growing. But, depending upon what kind of orchid you have, it can take from one month to six months for a new flower stem to be in full bloom once it begins to grow.

On most orchids, once the flowers have all died and fallen off, you may remove the stem by cutting it off down near the base of the flower stem. Prior to cutting off the stem, take a look at the top or tip of the stem to see if it has begun to dry, if it does start to dry that means the stem is dying and may be removed. If there are any bulbs on the orchid, you should leave them alone as they are a store of moisture and nutrients for the orchid.

Most dendrobiums are not that hard to grow but getting them to bloom reliably is the hard part. Moving them to Florida will make it easier. Why? The climate and sunshine it will receive all year round rather than the cold darkness in Indiana. Dendrobiums prefer warm bright weather, they will sulk and even die under cold dark conditions.

From your description of them, I take it that they are of the evergreen family of dendrobiums. If they were from the deciduous family you would have mentioned that some of the growths had lost all their leaves. The primary difference between the two families is that evergreens do not like dry conditions while deciduous ones need a pronounced dry period.

Why your evergreen dendrobiums have not rebloomed for you is in what you said "Since it is so cold and dark here in Indiana". Whether in Indiana or Florida, place them in a location with bright indirect sunlight, temperatures between 60 to 85%F, humidity above 50%, light air movement around them. A good way to tell if it is getting enough light is to look at the leaves, they will be a medium green color when it is just right.

A word of caution if you take them to Florida, move them into any new light conditions slowly over several weeks, as too sudden an exposure to brighter light may cause sunburn of the leaves. If possible, try exposing them to temperatures in the mid 50%F's for a month in the fall, that may help trigger them into the bloom cycle.

If, by chance, the leaves fall off, leave the growths on the dendrobium as they are a storage mechanism for moisture and nutrients. Only remove the growths that appear to be dying. As for those new growths, they may appear to stop growing due to the cold dark weather but should perk back up once things warm up and they receive more light.

You do not have to wait for a bloom to identify the type of orchid that it is if it is one of the more commonly available orchids. The most common is "phalaenopsis" that has large roundish to oblong leaves at the base of the plant and the flower spike grows from the apex of the leaves. Other common types are "the dendrobium, the lady slippers, and the Cattleyas". Each has a distinctive vegetative structure. If there was no tag with the plant, then I'm afraid there is no way to know the name of the hybrid since so many different hybrids have similar flower types and colors.

There are three principal types of containers for orchids. Phalaenopsis and lady slipper orchids are usually grown in a plastic pot, the heavier or more top heavy plants such as dendrobiums or cattleyas are better maintained in clay pots. Baskets are reserved for vandaceous orchids and require a very humid environment because the mix dries out very quickly. I would use a commercially prepared orchid mix that you can buy in bags at garden centers and mass marketers. I would soak this mix overnight before using it and drain it well before potting up your orchid plant in it.

Orchids that have maroon leaves generally get that way from having grown in bright sunlight. That suggests to you that either it was neglected or it likes bright light. It is not uncommon for orchids to outgrow their pots. Many feel this is the time divide and repot the plant, but that is personal preference. Many orchids do just fine hanging way out of the pot.

Since I don't know what type of orchid you have, I can only hazard a guess that they are roots emerging from the pot drainage holes. Some orchids send out bloom spikes from the base of the plant but those are potted in baskets not clay pots.

For now, if the plant looks healthy,I would leave it as is until you get a further development such as flowering, plant die back, new growth starting,etc. Orchids put on new growth once a year and usually, but not always, in the spring. Just keep an eye on it and it should be fine. Then you will be able to know what type of orchid it is by the bloom. If not just go back to where you got the orchid and see if they know what type of orchid it is.

The Strawberry Tree And Other Great Slow Growing Plants

One of the great things about being a gardener is that you never stop learning. Walking round a local park recently, (I live and work in central Israel) I came across a splendid old Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, and immediately wondered why I had neglected to even consider it for the private gardens I build. The principle reason can probably be traced to a reluctance, exacerbated no doubt by commercial pressures, to include some slow growing plants in the garden design. This bowing to the demand for quick results at any cost, leads us, professional and home gardener alike, to frequently prefer unsuitable but fast growing species, to slow growing ones that would be the best choice for a given situation. What after all is more important - how the garden looks 3 months after being built, or how it looks and feels five years later?

The Strawberry tree from Southern Europe is an ideal specimen for a Mediterranean and mild winter garden. It is evergreen, growing slowly to about 8-9 meters. It has an interesting sculptural form, becoming twisted and gnarled in maturity, and a uniquely beautiful peeling bark, revealing a reddish-brown trunk. Arbutus is one of those rare plants where the fruit and flowers appear simultaneously. Both are decorative, although the fruit while edible is not to everyone's taste!

There are in fact a number of advantages in growing slow growing trees over fast ones. The primary one being that they are mush easier to shape and train in the early years than many rampantly growing trees. Slow growing plants are typical to dry climates, while fast growing ones typically grow in tropical and sub-tropical regions. Clearly as the scarcity or abundance of water is a major factor determining the rate of growth of a particular species, it follows that slow growing plants are generally more suited to a water conserving regime than fast growing plants. The pine is another example to take note of. In Israel the rapidly growing Aleppo pine, Pinus halepensis, was the preferred choice in both parks and forestation projects. Unfortunately, its susceptibility to pests and disease has made it a rather regrettable choice. Nowadays the slow growing Stone pine, P. pinea is being used to far better long term effect. Let's not forget also the importance to a Mediterranean garden of the Olive tree and slow growing species of oak, as here one can see the correlation between slow growth and longevity.

With regards to landscape hedges, slow growing bushes like Carissa and Privet, are easier to keep in shape than those that grow rampantly like Bougainvillea or Clerodendron. Slower growth means less trimming, shearing and general maintenance. As for bushes and shrubs for use as informal hedges and screens, it can be a shame to give up on plants like Pittosporum, Myrtle, Pistacia and Nandina, just because they take a few years to fill in.

about the author

My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com

The Best Of The Lot! A Most Special Plant For A Dry Climate Garden

Is there an ornamental plant which makes a most beautiful and unusual sculptural silhouette, requires virtually no care and attention, and is extremely modest in its water needs? The answer is yes! It is the Bottle Palm, Nolina recurvata.

Nolina, by virtue of its thick trunk and meter long, grassy leaves, makes a very strong vertical accent in the garden, rising to some 3-4 meters, and even more after very many years. Its unique feature is the swollen base from which the trunk rises. On mature plants this can reach over a meter in diameter, and looks something like a giant onion.

Requiring little water, the Bottle Palm is ideally suited to dry landscape designs. It can be planted in a bed of decorative pebbles for instance, or in a mulch of wood chippings, and goes well with other plants of strong form such as Dracaena or Yucca. In fact it could serve as the focal point, or the dominant element in a composition based on ornamental grasses and grass-like plants. For example, it looks great billowing out of a carpet of low growing "grasses" like Festuca, Carex and Liriope.

Nolina should be used judiciously. It does not go well in my view with large-leaved and obviously tropical plants, but associates quite well with true palms. It is sometimes grown as a vertical emphasis in a carpet of flowers. Personally, I think this creates a certain amount of confusion, as the flower color and the strong lines of the Nolina compete for attention. Good design involves the correct relationship between a dominant factor, whether that be a sculptural plant or a mass of color, and a support factor such as a hedge or a green ground cover.

Nolina recurvata has to be about the easiest plant to grow. It is as close to being maintenance free as possible. Nonetheless, it does have its cultural requirements, which should be carefully noted.

*The most crucial is the need for excellent drainage. It is preferable to under-water Nolina than to over-water it. For this reason it should not be planted close to plants that require frequent watering, such as annual flowers. In such cases the bulb is liable to rot.

*Nolina requires full sun, but can get by in light shade

*Remember that this plant grows very slowly. As it needs room to grow, it should not be crowded out with competing species. Patience as ever is a virtue!

About the author

24/12/2007

Growlights for the Greenhouse

You may think that greenhouse lighting sounds like a very odd idea. Isn't the whole point of greenhouses that they let in plenty of light from the sun? Well, yes, but when the weather is gloomy or winter days are short sometimes the sun just isn't there as much as your plants would like. Those are the times when extra lighting can really come in handy, keeping your plants happy and healthy no matter what conditions are like outside.

Lighting accessories for greenhouses have improved a great deal over the past few years. No only have they come down in price, but they've diversified to meet a wider range of gardening needs. Traditional fluorescent grow lights are still an option, relatively cheap and easy to install.

They're good if you want to minimize heat output in a small greenhouse where it can be difficult to maintain temperature control. The newest grow lights to the market, the T5 fluorescent lights provide even more light intensity to your plants and use less energy!

Also available are high intensity discharge lights which concentrate their output in those regions of the spectrum which are most useful for photosynthesis. This means that it takes less power and fewer units of lighting to produce a comparable amount of growth.

There are grow lights designed to help your plants with vegetative growth or lights developed to aid with flowering. However, HID lights give off a lot more heat, so you should attach them high up in your greenhouse where they won't bake your plants.

The advent of more sophisticated greenhouse lighting accessories means that even under the worst conditions, it's possible to raise plants which look as if they've enjoyed full sunlight every day. However, it's important to remember that, even with these options available; plants still need a distinct day and night cycle.

This is essential to the way they respire and the way they get rid of waste - so don't be tempted to leave your greenhouse lights on too late into the night. Greenhouse lighting should not try to overcome nature - rather, it should complement it, to make the most of nature's bounty.

About the author

Michelle Torres has nearly 20 years experience using and designing greenhouses and is an avid gardener. You can find additional useful information about greenhouses and greenhouse gardening at http://www.greenhousecatalog.com

WHAT ARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF HYDROPONICS

Hydroponic systems are distinguished by their being active or passive. In an active hydroponics system the nutrients are provided to the plants by making use of a pump while in a passive hydroponics system the passing of the nutrients to the plant depend upon the growing medium.

However the passive Hydroponics system do not provide sufficient oxygen to the plant and hence the growth rate of the plants are not optimum. Hydroponic systems are also different on recovery and non recovery type. In recovery system the nutrients are recycled while in a non recovery system it is just the opposite. Here are some different types of hydroponics - 1. Wick system: wick system is passive as well as non recovery type. They are quite easy to handle and relatively inexpensive. However characteristically of a passive hydroponics system, it does not supply enough oxygen to the roots which in turn hampers the growth of the plant. Wick system is not much preferred way of Hydroponic gardening. 2. Ebb and flow system: ebb and flow is one of the most preferred ways of doing Hydroponics gardening.

This system is active as well as recovery type. Also known as flood and drain this system is quite easy to understand. The plant is kept in a reservoir containing nutrient solution. When the pump is started the nutrient are pumped in to the plant. After the water reaches the determined level, it is drained in to a river while the oxygen is sucked by the roots. 3. Nutrient film technique: nutrient technique is also a recovery type active Hydroponic system. In this kind of hydroponics system a submersible pump is used and the roots are suspended in a grow tube. The grow tube is in such an angle that the solution of the nutrients get recycled by flowing over the roots and then coming back to the reservoir. The oxygen requirement is solved by making use of air stones or air stones.

This system is highly effective and a bit difficult to build. A single mistake can cause the whole plant to dry. 4. Continuous drip: this system is also active type but it can be both recovery and non recovery type. In this kind of system a drip tray is kept under each and every row of plants and the solution is recycled to the reservoir. The dip emitter enables the gardener to adjust the amount of nutrient flow for each plant.

About the author

For more insights and further information on Hydroponics Systems and an understanding of Hydroponics Gardening as well as getting an online How to Hydroponics Guide please visit our web site at http://www.hydroponicsmadeeasy.com/

Tips for Hydroponics Gardening

Hydroponics gardening is better known as soiless gardening. Carrying its legacy right from the times of the Aztecs civilizations this type of gardening has always fascinated human kind. The famous hanging hardens of Babylonia are also based on the same technique of Hydroponics Gardening . Hydroponics gardening basically means gardening on false soil where the plant and the soil layer float on the water. With the help of Hydroponics you can have your favorite plants planted in your rooms. Generally, Hydroponics gardening is used for decoration purposes. With the help of Hydroponics you can also have flower plants which will fill your rooms with their faint fragrance. However, hydroponic plants also require a lot of care and nutrition.

There are various Hydroponics guide and tips through which you can give the plants the exact nutrition and care which they require. Following tips will help you in making your hydroponic gardening productive and healthy: - 1. Getting a good start: - The germination period of the seeds in case of hydroponics gardening is carried on a medium. Thus it is very important what sort of medium is used for this purpose. Well you can use peat moss, expanded clay, composted bark, gravel or sand. The ones to be avoided are oasis, vermiculite, perlite and rockwool. Thus the above mentioned favorable mediums will help the plants get a good start.

Now it is to be kept in mind each an every plant has a different requirement so the medium should be chosen accordingly. 2. Proper Light: - Another important requirement for Hydroponic plants is proper light. The light requirements depend upon the plant types and also the plant's different stages. For this purpose you can use Metal Halide as well High Pressure Sodium lights depending upon the stage of the plant. There are some LED lights which can be accordingly adjusted to feed the plants with lights in their different stages. 3. Giving the required Nutrition: - It is a well known fact that without proper nutrition the plants cannot grow. There are a total of sixteen nutrients which the plants require in order to grow properly. Some of them are macronutrients and some of them are micronutrients. 4. Disease Prevention: - In hydroponics gardening also you will face the same problem of insects and plant diseases. Thus you will have to battle it out. You can do this by selecting disease resistant plants, maintaining clean growing environment, temperature control, proper ventilation and constant monitoring of problems. Thus by following these tips you can have a pleasant experience of Hydroponics gardening.

About the author

02/01/2008

24/12/2007

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